5 Days in Lyon: The First-Timer Itinerary
Five days in Lyon adds real depth to the Roman side of the city, the indoor Lugdunum Museum and the Fourviere rooftop tour, plus a crossing into La Guillotiere for the best cheap food in town, on top of the first four days here. Shorter trip? Drop to 2 , 3 , or 4 days . Have longer? Step up to 6 or a full 7 days .
Book these before you go
- Hotel: check Vieux Lyon or Presqu’ile availability on Booking.com
- A traboules walking tour: browse times on GetYourGuide
- The Fourviere rooftop tour: check slots on GetYourGuide
- A bouchon food tour: reserve through Viator
| Day | Focus |
|---|---|
| Day 1 | Vieux Lyon, the traboules, Fourviere basilica |
| Day 2 | Presqu’ile, Les Halles Paul Bocuse |
| Day 3 | Croix-Rousse, silk history, the Fresque des Lyonnais |
| Day 4 | Confluence district, Musee des Confluences, Parc de la Tete d’Or |
| Day 5 | Lugdunum Museum, Fourviere rooftop tour, La Guillotiere |
Day 1: Vieux Lyon and Fourviere
- Land in Lyon and grab a TCL day pass or single EUR 2.10 tickets, both funiculars up to Fourviere are covered, no separate ticket needed.
- Ride the funicular to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere , free to enter, and get the correction out of the way early: this is not Lyon’s cathedral, that’s Saint-Jean down in Vieux Lyon.
- Walk the short path to the Roman theatres, the outdoor Grand Theatre and Odeon, free, open daily, still hosting summer concerts nearly 2,000 years after they were built.
- Descend into Vieux Lyon and duck through your first traboule. These covered passages are mostly private property with a public right-of-way 7am to 7pm, so keep your voice down and close doors behind you.
- Dinner at a certified bouchon: Daniel et Denise runs a EUR 21 lunch formula and a EUR 41 seasonal menu, or Le Garet for a la carte around EUR 30-40. Order the quenelle de brochet if you’ve never had one.
Day 2: Presqu’ile and Les Halles Paul Bocuse
- Morning in the Presqu’ile, the peninsula wedged between the Rhone and the Saone: start at Place Bellecour, one of Europe’s largest pedestrian squares, then wander Rue de la Republique past the Opera and the Hotel de Ville.
- Lunch at Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, roughly 60 vendors under one roof at Part-Dieu. Bocuse’s name is still on the door, he died in January 2018, but the market itself is as busy as ever.
- Afternoon along the Saone or Rhone riverbanks, both flat, both walkable, both free.
- Evening back in the Presqu’ile for dinner and a drink, this district holds most of the city’s bars and late kitchens.
Day 3: Croix-Rousse and the silk history
- Climb, or take the metro, up to Croix-Rousse, nicknamed la colline qui travaille, the hill that works, in deliberate contrast to Fourviere’s la colline qui prie, the hill that prays.
- Visit the Maison des Canuts to see a working silk loom and hear how the district’s canuts, the silk weavers, actually used traboules to move fabric under cover, not just to dodge rain. Lyon’s official tourism site keeps current opening hours if the museum’s schedule has shifted.
- Find the Fresque des Lyonnais, a roughly 800-square-meter trompe-l’oeil mural painted in 1994-95, depicting 30 famous Lyonnais, the Lumiere brothers and Bocuse among them, leaning off painted balconies above a painted bouchon.
- Browse the Croix-Rousse market if it’s a market morning, then dinner at a neighborhood bouchon, quieter and less touristy than the ones down in Vieux Lyon.
Day 4: The Confluence and Parc de la Tete d’Or
- Morning at the Confluence district, the actual southern tip where the Rhone meets the Saone, redeveloped since 2003 into Lyon’s contemporary-architecture showcase.
- Tour the Musee des Confluences , EUR 12 adult, EUR 7 for ages 18-25, inside a deconstructivist glass-and-steel building that’s worth walking through even if you skip every exhibit.
- Afternoon at Parc de la Tete d’Or, free, roughly 105 hectares, home to France’s largest botanical garden and a small free zoo. Rent a rowboat on the lake if the weather cooperates.
- Dinner near Brotteaux or back in the Presqu’ile.
Day 5: Roman Lyon in depth and La Guillotiere
- Morning at the Lugdunum Museum , the indoor Gallo-Roman collection next to the outdoor theatres you saw on day 1, a separate paid ticket from EUR 4, worth it if antiquity is your thing.
- If you skipped it on day 1, book the EUR 14 Fourviere rooftop tour, a 90-minute guided climb onto the basilica’s sculpted roof for the best panorama in the city.
- Cross the Rhone into La Guillotiere, Lyon’s most multicultural district, for genuinely excellent, cheap North African, Vietnamese, and Chinese food. Good Metro connections on lines B and D get you there fast.
- Head back across the river before the square gets sketchy late at night, La Guillotiere is a real day-and-night district, excellent by day, worth a bit more street sense after dark.
Is the Fourviere rooftop tour worth the EUR 14?
Yes, if you’re already sold on the panorama from the free esplanade and want to go further. The 90-minute guided climb onto the basilica’s sculpted roof gets you above the crowds and closer to the mosaics up close, something the free ground-floor visit doesn’t cover. Skip it only if you’re tight on day 5’s schedule, the outdoor Roman theatres deliver a comparable free view for zero cost.
Is La Guillotiere safe to visit?
By day, it’s one of the best food districts in Lyon and not remotely a place to avoid. After dark, the main square and bridge area call for a bit more street awareness than the Presqu’ile, keep valuables zipped and don’t linger alone right at the bridge late at night. Neither extreme, treat it as a real neighborhood, not a checklist item.
Eat lunch in La Guillotiere, not dinner, on day 5 if you’re traveling solo or want the safest version of this crossing, the food is just as good at noon and the walk back is a non-issue in daylight.