Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Tallinn

The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral sits at the top of Toompea Hill, directly opposite the entrance to the Estonian Parliament, and it was designed to be seen from everywhere in the lower city. Built between 1894 and 1900 by the Russian Imperial authorities, it was an explicit statement of Russian cultural and political dominance over Estonia at a time when independence was not on the table. The Estonians have had complex feelings about it ever since. There was a serious proposal to demolish it after Estonian independence in 1918; it survived, and is now generally accepted as part of the city’s layered history even by those who know exactly what it was built to represent.

The five onion domes are covered in bright blue and gold ceramic tiles. The effect against Tallinn’s medieval limestone skyline is deliberately conspicuous. Entry is free; the interior is open 08:00-19:00 Monday to Saturday and limited hours on Sundays around liturgical services.

The Interior

The main hall seats over 1,000 people and is decorated with intricate mosaics and an elaborate iconostasis. The acoustic quality is exceptional during services, with the Orthodox chanting carrying through the space in a way that makes even non-religious visitors pause. Photographs inside during services are not permitted; outside service hours, photography is generally tolerated with sensitivity. Dress modestly – covered shoulders and knees.

Toompea and the Old Town

The cathedral is 2 minutes’ walk from Toompea Castle, the medieval fortress that houses the Estonian Parliament. The upper town (Toompea) is accessible from the lower Old Town by two medieval staircases, Lühike jalg (Short Leg) and Pikk jalg (Long Leg). The view from the Patkuli viewing platform on the western edge of Toompea, looking down over the red-roofed Old Town, is the defining Tallinn photograph and best in the morning light.

The lower Old Town – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – is one of the best-preserved medieval city centres in northern Europe. Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square) and the winding streets around it have the scale and character of a working medieval city without having been overly restored. St. Catherine’s Passage, a narrow Gothic alley linking Vene Street and Müürivahe, has arched Gothic windows and stone tombs embedded in the walls.

Where to Eat

Olde Hansa on Vana turg, a few minutes below the cathedral, serves medieval-style Estonian food with costumed staff and candlelight in vaulted rooms – theatrical and genuinely enjoyable. Elk medallions and honey mead feature. Leib Resto ja Aed in the garden near the old Dominican monastery does modern Estonian cooking with a strong focus on seasonal produce, and is considered one of the better serious restaurants in the city.

For coffee and pastry, Kohvik Pierre on Harju Street does proper espresso and excellent kringel (braided pastry) in a space that has been a café for decades.

Where to Stay

The Three Sisters Hotel in the Old Town is a boutique hotel in three 15th-century merchant houses, each room differently decorated. Among the best-positioned hotels in Tallinn. Hotel Telegraaf is a 5-star property in a converted 19th-century building with contemporary amenities. For budget options, several good hostels cluster in and around the Old Town; Tallinn is considerably cheaper than most western European capitals.

Getting There

The cathedral is accessible on foot from most of the Old Town via the Lühike jalg staircase. From the main Tallinn bus and ferry terminals, the Old Town is a 10-minute walk. Tram lines 1 and 2 stop at Hobujaama, a 5-minute uphill walk from the cathedral.