Altun Ha, Maya Site

Altun Ha, Belize

The largest carved jade object ever found in the Maya world was discovered at this site in 1968 by archaeologist David Pendergast. The head of Kinich Ahau, the Maya sun god, weighs 4.4 kilograms and stands 14.9 centimetres tall. It was found in a tomb inside the Temple of the Masonry Altars, wrapped in textiles, alongside jade and obsidian ornaments. The head now lives in the vaults of the Belize Bank under guard, which is where you realise Belize takes its heritage seriously. A copy stands in the National Museum of Belize. The original jade head also appears on the Belikin beer bottle label, which means it reaches more people per day than any museum could manage.

Altun Ha sits 50 kilometres north of Belize City in a stretch of lowland jungle that floods in the rainy season. The name means “rockstone water” in Yucatec Maya. Settlement here began around 200 BCE and the major construction phase peaked between 400 and 900 CE. The site was a trading hub, with obsidian from Guatemala and jade from the Maya highlands moving through it. The 26 structures excavated so far are grouped around two main plazas.

The Site

The Plaza A complex contains the largest structures. Temple B1, the Temple of the Masonry Altars, is the main pyramid and accessible by a steep staircase to the top. From the summit, the surrounding jungle canopy stretches to the horizon in every direction without visible development, which gives a sense of the isolation that defined Maya lowland cities.

The site is not as extensively excavated or restored as Chichen Itza or Tikal. Some visitors find this disappointing; I think it makes Altun Ha more interesting. The mounds still covered in jungle vegetation alongside the cleared pyramids show the incremental nature of archaeological work, and the smaller scale means you can walk the entire site in two to three hours without a crowd pressing you forward.

Practical Details

The site is open from 8am to 5pm daily. Admission is around BZD 20 (about USD 10). Licensed guides are available at the entrance for around BZD 60 to 80 for a two-hour tour; the context they provide on the tomb structures and the jade trade makes the site considerably more comprehensible.

The road from Belize City follows the Northern Highway and then a signed turnoff; the drive takes about 45 minutes. There is no public transport to Altun Ha directly; taxis from Belize City cost around USD 60 to 70 return with waiting time, or you can join a day tour that includes transport.

Where to Eat and Stay

Maruba Resort Jungle Lodge, about 10 kilometres from the site, has jungle cabanas, a pool, and a restaurant. It is the comfortable option for an overnight stay. In the surrounding area, meals are basic; bring snacks or eat in Belize City before the journey.

The dry season from December through May is the most practical time to visit. The wet season (June through November) makes the roads muddy and the site itself can be swampy underfoot. The trade-off is that wet season brings fewer tourists and the jungle is more intensely alive.

Combining with Other Sites

Altun Ha makes a logical combination with the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary (a lagoon system with a significant population of jabiru storks) about 60 kilometres northwest. If you have a vehicle, both can be done in the same day from Belize City. For a more serious Maya archaeology itinerary, Lamanai (accessible by boat up the New River from Orange Walk) and Xunantunich near the Guatemalan border are the two other major Belizean sites worth combining with Altun Ha over several days.