Aurora Borealis
Chasing the Northern Lights: A Guide to Witnessing the Magic of Aurora Borealis
Few natural events match the Aurora Borealis for sheer impact. Curtains of green, violet, and red light ripple across a dark sky while the ground below sits frozen and still. This guide covers where to go, what to expect, and how to make the most of a Northern Lights trip from start to finish.
Understanding the Aurora Borealis
The Aurora Borealis occurs when charged particles from the sun collide with gases in Earth’s atmosphere at high latitudes. The collisions release energy as light, producing the colours we see. Green is the most common and appears at altitudes of roughly 100 km. Red and violet hues appear higher up, while blue is rarer and tends to show at lower altitudes.
Activity follows an 11-year solar cycle. The current cycle peaked around 2025, meaning the late 2020s still offer above-average viewing conditions. Displays are also tied to the Kp index, a scale of 0 to 9 measuring geomagnetic activity. A Kp of 3 or above is enough to see the lights from high-latitude cities. A Kp of 7 or higher pushes the aurora south into central Europe and the northern United States.
The best viewing window runs from late September to late March, when polar nights are long and skies go fully dark. Midsummer is a poor time to visit destinations above the Arctic Circle because the sun barely sets.
Where to Visit
The auroral oval – the ring around the geomagnetic pole where activity concentrates – passes over several accessible destinations.
Tromsø, Norway Tromsø sits at 70 degrees north, well inside the auroral oval, and has a well-developed tourism infrastructure. The surrounding fjords and mountains provide dramatic foreground for photographs. The city is reachable by direct flight from several European hubs and has good transport links for day trips into the countryside, where light pollution drops sharply.
Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada Yellowknife lies directly under the auroral oval and averages over 240 nights of aurora activity per year according to local tourism data. The flat terrain around Great Slave Lake gives unobstructed views of the horizon. Temperatures in January and February regularly fall below -30 C, so cold-weather gear is non-negotiable.
Fairbanks, Alaska, USA Fairbanks combines good aurora statistics with easier access for travellers from North America. The city sits in an interior valley away from coastal cloud systems, which means clearer skies than coastal Alaskan cities. The University of Alaska Fairbanks operates a Geophysical Institute that publishes aurora forecasts updated every few hours.
Reykjavik, Iceland Iceland’s capital is a short flight from both North America and Europe. The island’s location in the mid-Atlantic means cloud cover is a genuine obstacle, but the country is small enough that a two-hour drive can take you clear of a weather system. The Interior Highlands, accessible in winter via modified jeep tours, are among the darkest and most remote spots in Europe.
Abisko, Sweden Abisko is a small settlement in Swedish Lapland, roughly 200 km north of the Arctic Circle. A microclimate caused by nearby Lake Tornetrask produces unusually clear skies compared to surrounding areas. The Aurora Sky Station, reached by chairlift, operates specifically for aurora viewing and offers a heated observation room for those who need a break from the cold.
Rovaniemi, Finland Rovaniemi sits on the Arctic Circle and serves as the administrative centre of Finnish Lapland. It is a common entry point for aurora trips in Finland, with regular flights from Helsinki. The surrounding wilderness is accessible via organised snowmobile and reindeer safaris.
What to Eat
Food in aurora destinations reflects the local environment. The following dishes and ingredients appear regularly across the region.
Norway Traditional Norwegian cooking makes heavy use of preserved and slow-cooked meats. Kjøttkaker (meatballs served in brown gravy) and fårikål (lamb simmered slowly with cabbage) are common in local restaurants and canteens. Fresh and smoked salmon appear on most menus, often paired with flatbread and sour cream. Arctic char, a cold-water fish related to salmon and trout, is found on menus in Tromsø and throughout northern Norway.
Canada Bannock, a simple pan-fried bread with roots in Indigenous and fur trade culture, is found in Yellowknife bakeries and served alongside stews. Northern cuisine in the Northwest Territories draws on locally hunted game including caribou, which appears in burgers, stews, and sausages. Pike and whitefish from Great Slave Lake feature on menus in season.
Alaska King crab is the headline item in Fairbanks during winter, flown in from the coast. Reindeer sausage, sold from roadside stands and at local diners, is a regional staple that has been part of Alaskan food culture for over a century. Birch syrup, produced from Alaskan birch trees, has a more complex and slightly savoury flavour compared to maple syrup and is used as a topping and in sauces.
Iceland Skyr is a thick, high-protein dairy product similar in texture to strained yogurt. It has been produced in Iceland for centuries and is available in every supermarket and most cafes. Lamb is central to Icelandic meat-based cooking and appears in hearty soups alongside root vegetables. For the adventurous, hákarl (fermented Greenlandic shark) is a traditional food with a sharp ammonia scent that takes some adjustment.
Lapland (Finland and Sweden) Cloudberry, a golden berry that grows across Arctic bogs in late summer, appears in jams, desserts, and liqueurs throughout Lapland. Smoked and salted salmon is a staple, often prepared over open fires. Reindeer meat, cured or cooked fresh, is the defining protein of the region and is served in everything from traditional stews to modern restaurant dishes.
Where to Stay
Accommodation options range from standard hotels to purpose-built aurora-viewing shelters.
Tromsø, Norway The city has a good selection of hotels at various price points. Properties near the waterfront offer mountain and fjord views. For something more immersive, several operators run remote wilderness camps within an hour of the city where guests sleep in heated cabins far from street lighting.
Yellowknife, Canada Hotels in the downtown core are convenient and comfortable, with some properties offering aurora wake-up calls so guests don’t miss activity during the night. Aurora-viewing lodges outside the city offer a quieter experience with direct access to dark-sky viewing areas.
Fairbanks, Alaska The city has standard chain hotels near the airport and downtown. Several properties north of the city centre offer better dark-sky access. Chena Hot Springs Resort, about 60 miles from Fairbanks, is a well-known option that combines thermal bathing with aurora viewing from open-air pools.
Reykjavik, Iceland Reykjavik’s hotel stock ranges from boutique city-centre properties to larger business hotels. For aurora viewing, farm stays and rural guesthouses outside the city provide much darker skies. The south and west coasts have a number of small lodges that cater specifically to aurora and landscape photography.
Abisko, Sweden Accommodation options in Abisko are limited but well-suited to the purpose. The STF Abisko Turiststation (a mountain station run by the Swedish Tourist Association) has rooms and dormitories, and its location directly under clear-sky conditions makes it one of the most reliable spots in Scandinavia for aurora viewing.
Rovaniemi, Finland Rovaniemi has a range of hotels and guesthouses, plus glass-roofed cabins operated by a handful of resorts in the surrounding area. These structures allow guests to lie in bed and watch the sky without going outside. Bookings for glass cabins fill up months in advance during the peak winter season.
Activities and Tips
Plan around the forecast Aurora activity is unpredictable but not invisible in advance. Several free apps and websites provide Kp index forecasts and short-term aurora alerts. The NOAA Space Weather Prediction Center issues 3-day forecasts. SpaceWeatherLive and My Aurora Forecast are popular apps among dedicated aurora hunters. Set alerts for Kp thresholds and be ready to move quickly when conditions align.
Get away from city lights Even a modest drive out of town makes a significant difference. A dark-sky site with a Bortle rating of 3 or lower will reveal far more than a city park. Most guided tours include transport to dark locations as part of the package.
Take a guided tour Local guides track forecasts closely and know which nearby locations offer the best combination of dark skies, clear horizons, and shelter from wind. Tours also handle logistics that can be challenging for first-time visitors, including transport, safety gear in extreme cold, and backup locations if the primary spot is clouded over.
Dress for extreme cold The key principle is layering. A moisture-wicking base layer keeps sweat off the skin. A mid-layer of fleece or down provides insulation. A windproof and waterproof outer shell protects against wind chill. Extremities lose heat quickly, so insulated gloves, thick wool or synthetic socks, and a hat that covers the ears are essential. Chemical hand warmers are cheap and useful as backup. Temperatures in prime aurora locations regularly drop to -20 C or below.
Photography essentials A camera capable of manual exposure settings is required. Key settings to experiment with: ISO between 800 and 3200, aperture as wide as the lens allows (f/2.8 or lower is ideal), and shutter speed between 5 and 25 seconds depending on how fast the aurora is moving. A sturdy tripod is non-negotiable. Remote shutter releases or a 2-second timer setting prevent camera shake during long exposures. Batteries drain quickly in cold conditions, so carry spares stored close to your body to keep them warm.
Time your trip correctly The aurora is only visible at night and is most active around local midnight, though displays can occur at any hour of darkness. Aim to stay at your viewing location for at least two to three hours rather than expecting a display on a fixed schedule. Patience is the most important quality for aurora hunters.
Monitor cloud cover separately from aurora forecasts Cloud cover is the single biggest obstacle to aurora viewing. Many aurora forecast tools don’t include detailed cloud data, so check a dedicated weather forecast for your viewing location. Partly cloudy nights are worth attempting since gaps in cloud cover can produce memorable views.
Other Things of Interest
Dog sledding Mushing across snow-covered terrain is one of the defining experiences of Arctic winter travel. Multi-hour tours are available from operators near most major aurora destinations. Some operators offer full-day expeditions into backcountry areas well away from roads.
Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing Both activities offer a quiet way to move through winter landscapes. Trails around Tromsø, Abisko, and Fairbanks are well-marked and accessible to beginners. Snowshoeing requires minimal instruction and most rental shops can fit you in under 15 minutes.
Northern Indigenous cultures The Arctic and sub-Arctic regions are home to Indigenous peoples including the Sami of Scandinavia, the Dene and Cree of northern Canada, and the Athabascan peoples of Alaska. Cultural centres in cities including Tromsø, Fairbanks, and Yellowknife offer permanent exhibitions on traditional practices, languages, and history. Some tour operators run experiences led by Indigenous guides that place aurora viewing in a broader cultural context.
Thermal bathing Iceland and Finland both have strong sauna and thermal bathing cultures. Reykjavik’s geothermally heated public pools operate year-round and provide warm recovery after cold nights outdoors. In Finland, lakeside saunas followed by a roll in the snow are a standard part of winter life. Several resorts in Lapland include private sauna access as standard.
Ice fishing Drilling a hole through lake ice and fishing in silence is a genuine pastime across northern Canada, Alaska, and Scandinavia. Guides provide all equipment and a basic introduction. It requires minimal physical fitness and is an accessible activity for a wide age range.
Reindeer and husky farms Both types of farm offer structured visits that include feeding animals, learning about herding practices, and short rides or guided walks. These are common day-trip options from Rovaniemi and Tromsø and are popular with families.
Planning Checklist
- Book accommodation and guided tours well in advance, particularly for January and February
- Obtain travel insurance that covers emergency medical evacuation in remote locations
- Check entry requirements and visa rules for your destination country
- Download aurora forecast apps before departure and set up activity alerts
- Pack extreme-cold clothing regardless of what temperature forecasts suggest; conditions change fast
- Carry a fully charged power bank, as cold drains phone batteries quickly
- Confirm cancellation policies with tour operators since weather-related cancellations are common
The Aurora Borealis operates on its own schedule and makes no guarantees. A week-long trip with flexible evenings significantly improves the odds over a short two-night stay. Come prepared for cold, dark nights and the waiting that goes with them, and the reward can be extraordinary.