Ayuthaya, Thailand

Discovering the Ancient Charm of Ayutthaya, Thailand

Located just 80 kilometers north of Bangkok, Ayutthaya is a city steeped in history and culture. This ancient capital of Siam served as the political and commercial heart of the kingdom for over 400 years, from its founding in 1350 until its destruction by Burmese forces in 1767. Today it draws travelers who want to walk among the ruins of that lost empire and understand what made it one of the great cities of medieval Southeast Asia.

Where to Visit

  • Ayutthaya Historical Park: A UNESCO World Heritage Site covering several square kilometers in the heart of the island city, the park contains dozens of temple ruins in varying states of preservation. The most significant include Wat Phra Si Sanphet, which was the royal chapel of the Ayutthaya kings and once contained a 16-meter golden Buddha; Wat Mahathat, where a stone Buddha head has grown into the roots of a bodhi tree over centuries; and Wat Chaiwatthanaram, a 17th-century Khmer-style complex on the western bank of the Chao Phraya River that is particularly striking at sunset.

  • Wat Yai Chaimongkol: Built in the 14th century and featuring a large chedi surrounded by rows of seated Buddha statues, this temple sits outside the main historical park to the southeast of the island. It is quieter than the central ruins and offers a more contemplative atmosphere. The monks who live here keep the grounds well maintained.

  • Wat Phanan Choeng: Founded in 1324, this working temple predates the founding of Ayutthaya itself. Its main hall contains a massive seated Buddha image, 19 meters tall and covered in gold leaf, that is one of the most revered in the region. The temple is active with worshippers, especially on weekends when local families bring offerings.

  • Chao Sam Phraya National Museum: This museum holds a substantial collection of artifacts recovered from Ayutthaya’s temples and crypt chambers, including gold jewelry, Buddha images, and ceremonial objects. It provides useful context for understanding what the ruins looked like at their height and is worth visiting before heading into the historical park.

  • Ayutthaya Elephant Palace and Royal Kraal: The Royal Kraal is a reconstructed version of the enclosure used by Ayutthaya kings to corral wild elephants during royal ceremonies. Nearby, the Elephant Palace offers ethical interactions with elephants that have been rescued from difficult conditions. Look for sanctuaries that allow observation and feeding without riding.

  • Bang Pa-In Royal Palace: About 20 kilometers south of Ayutthaya, this 17th-century palace complex sits on an island in the Chao Phraya River and blends Thai, Chinese, and European architectural styles. It was a favored retreat of King Rama V during the late 19th century and remains a royal residence today, open to visitors when the royal family is not in residence.

Where to Eat

Ayutthaya’s food scene is strongest along the river and around the night market area. The city is particularly known for its freshwater fish dishes, drawing on the rivers and canals that surround it.

  • Roti Sai Mai Stalls: This sweet is unique to Ayutthaya and worth seeking out. Vendors spin thin cotton-candy-like strands of sugar and wrap them in soft roti sheets, producing a delicate, fragrant snack. You will find stalls concentrated near Pratu Chai and along the main road into town. It makes for an inexpensive and memorable local experience.

  • Night Market along U Thong Road: Street vendors set up each evening along the riverside road, selling grilled river prawns, boat noodles, pad kra pao, mango sticky rice, and a wide range of skewered meats. Prices are low, portions are generous, and the setting along the lit riverbank makes for a pleasant evening meal.

  • Pae Krung Kao Restaurant: Situated on a floating platform over the river, this restaurant has been serving traditional Thai and Chinese-Thai dishes for many years. The fish dishes are particularly good, with preparations like steamed snapper and stir-fried river prawn recommended by regular visitors.

  • Morning Market near Hua Ro: The morning market that operates near the northeastern corner of the island is where locals shop for fresh produce, grilled meats, and prepared foods. Arriving early gets you the widest selection. Vendors sell items like khanom krok (coconut pancakes), grilled corn, and various curries packed in banana leaf.

Where to Stay

Ayutthaya can be visited as a day trip from Bangkok, but staying overnight allows you to see the ruins at dawn or dusk when crowds thin and the light is more interesting.

  • Sala Ayutthaya: A well-regarded boutique property on the riverbank, with views across to Wat Phutthaisawan. The rooms are modern with a clean design, and the rooftop offers good views over the river. It occupies the upper end of Ayutthaya’s accommodation range.

  • Baan Lotus Guest House: A mid-range option with comfortable, simply furnished rooms in a converted Thai house near the historical park. The hosts are helpful with practical information about getting around, and breakfast is included.

  • Tony’s Place: One of the more established budget guesthouses in the city, with dormitory and private room options. Located in a central position on the island, with bicycle rental available and a communal area where travelers exchange information about the sites.

  • Riverside Guesthouses: Several smaller family-run guesthouses along the eastern and western riverbanks offer basic accommodation at low prices. Staying on the river means you can watch boat traffic in the morning and see the temples lit at night.

Activities and Tips

  • Rent a bicycle: The island city is flat and compact enough to cover by bicycle. Most guesthouses and several shops near the train station rent them for a modest daily fee. A full circuit of the island’s main ruins takes three to four hours at a relaxed pace.

  • Take a boat tour: Long-tail boats can be hired from the pier near the tourist information center for tours of the canals and outer temples that are difficult to reach by road. A one-hour circuit typically covers Wat Chaiwatthanaram and the outer walls.

  • Visit at dawn or dusk: The main ruins in the historical park are at their most atmospheric in early morning or late afternoon. Midday heat between November and April can be intense, and the crowds are heavier during those hours.

  • Dress appropriately for temples: All temples require covered shoulders and legs. Lightweight clothing that covers the required areas is easy to manage in the heat. Some temples loan wraps at the entrance, but bringing your own is more reliable.

  • Get a map from the tourist office: The Tourism Authority of Thailand office near the train station provides a free map that marks all the significant sites, along with walking and cycling routes. It is more useful than most phone mapping applications for navigating the ruins.

  • Check the weather: The rainy season runs roughly from May through October. Travel during this period is still possible and the ruins are less crowded, but some low-lying areas around the park flood significantly, and afternoon thunderstorms are common.

Getting There

  • Train: Regular trains run from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Station to Ayutthaya Railway Station, taking between 1.5 and 2 hours depending on the service. Trains are inexpensive and the station is a short tuk-tuk ride from the historical park. The third-class fare is very low. Check the State Railway of Thailand schedule for departure times.

  • Minivan: Minivans depart from Victory Monument in Bangkok and drop passengers near the Ayutthaya tourist center. The journey takes about 90 minutes outside peak traffic hours. This is a faster option than the bus for most travelers coming from central Bangkok.

  • Bus: Air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok’s Mo Chit Bus Terminal and take approximately 1.5 to 2 hours.

  • Organized Tour: Several operators run day tours from Bangkok that include transport, a guide, and entry fees. These are convenient but leave little flexibility for spending time at individual sites.

Getting Around

  • Tuk-tuk: Tuk-tuk drivers near the train station and tourist center offer fixed-price half-day tours of the main sites. Agree on the price and itinerary before departing. This is a practical option for those who prefer not to cycle.

  • Songthaew: Shared red trucks follow loose routes around the island and to outlying temples. They are cheap but require some knowledge of the routes to use efficiently.

  • Bicycle: As noted above, cycling is the preferred way to explore the ruins for most independent travelers.

Practical Notes

  • The island city is surrounded by three rivers: the Chao Phraya, the Pa Sak, and the Lopburi. This geography shaped the city’s defense and trade for centuries and is still visible in the way roads and ferry crossings are arranged.

  • Entry fees for the historical park sites are modest. A combined ticket covers the most significant ruins within the park boundary. Some temples operated by active religious communities charge separately or by donation.

  • Ayutthaya can become crowded on Thai public holidays and during the Songkran festival in April, when the city holds large celebrations. The Loi Krathong festival in November also draws visitors to the riverside.

  • Photography is permitted throughout the park, but visitors are asked not to climb on or pose in ways that are disrespectful to the Buddha images, some of which remain active objects of worship despite being ruined.