Bacuit Archipelago
The Bacuit Archipelago, El Nido
The 45 limestone islands of the Bacuit Archipelago in northern Palawan were formed by the same geological processes that created the dramatic karst landscape of Halong Bay in Vietnam and the Komodo islands in Indonesia – ancient coral reefs uplifted and eroded over millions of years into vertical walls that now drop directly into turquoise water. The difference from those better-known sites is that the Bacuit Archipelago is mostly not overrun, which means you can actually swim in the lagoons without a hundred other snorkellers around you.
El Nido is the jump-off town on the mainland. It has developed substantially over the past decade – the accommodation range now runs from budget guesthouses to legitimate luxury resorts on private islands – but retains a smaller scale than comparable Philippine beach destinations.
The Island-Hopping Tour System
The four-tour system (Tours A, B, C, D) rotates daily to manage visitor distribution across the archipelago. Each tour visits three to four sites and includes a beach lunch. Tours depart at 8:00am and accommodate 15 to 20 people. Book through your accommodation or through operators at the town’s tourism offices. Tour A, covering the Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, and Miniloc Island, is the most popular; Tour C (Cathedral Cave, Matinloc Shrine, Hidden Beach) is often recommended as the strongest for sheer variety.
The Lagoons
Big Lagoon is entered through a narrow passage in a limestone wall and opens into an enclosed body of water surrounded by vertical cliffs. The colour in good light is specific – a particular jade green that photographs rarely capture accurately. Kayaks are the way in; the passage is too shallow for bangka boats. Small Lagoon requires swimming through an even narrower gap, timed to the swell. Both are worth doing early in the tour before the afternoon wind picks up.
Diving and Snorkelling
Visibility runs 15 to 25 metres. The reef ecosystems include parrotfish, barracuda, trevally, sea turtles, and occasionally reef sharks. The best snorkelling spots are around Shimizu Island (Tour B) and the house reefs near Matinloc. Dive shops in El Nido town run PADI courses and guided dives for all experience levels; the Bacuit Bay dive sites include walls, gardens, and a Japanese World War II shipwreck.
Where to Stay and Eat
El Nido Resorts operates four properties on private islands within the archipelago, ranging from the luxury Pangulasian Island to the more accessible Miniloc Island. Cauayan Island Resort is an eco-focused mid-range option. Budget accommodation clusters in El Nido town along the main beach road.
Artcafe in the town does good international food with fresh seafood and the best breakfast on the strip. Lally’s Restaurant in Corong-Corong (the quieter beach south of town) does reliable Filipino grilled fish at low prices.
Getting There
El Nido Airport (ENI) receives flights from Manila (Air Juan, AirSWIFT) and from Puerto Princesa in southern Palawan. The van transfer from Puerto Princesa is 5 to 6 hours on sometimes rough road – the flight is much better if available. Book early; planes are small and seats go quickly.
Practical Notes
December to May is the dry season; June to November brings monsoon conditions, rough seas, and tour cancellations. Visit January to April for the best combination of weather and sea conditions. Bring reef-safe sunscreen only – standard sunscreen is actively damaging the coral ecosystems that make this destination worth visiting.