Bagan Temples & Pagodas

Bagan: More Than 2,000 Temples Across a Flat Plain

At sunrise in October, up to a hundred hot air balloons ascend simultaneously above the Bagan plain. The temples below – brick towers emerging from red dust and scrub, stretching in every direction across 104 square kilometres – are visible as a continuous field rather than individual monuments. At balloon altitude you see that the density of structures was once far greater than what stands now: the flat plain between surviving temples shows the raised outlines of foundations, the ghost shapes of smaller shrines and monasteries built and collapsed over ten centuries. More than 10,000 religious structures were built here between the 9th and 13th centuries during the Bagan Kingdom. Roughly 2,000 remain.

Balloon rides run October through March, roughly USD 250 to 300 per person for a standard flight and USD 400 to 500 for a private or luxury option. Book at least one to two weeks ahead in high season. Flights take off before sunrise – be at the launch site by 5:30am – and the basket descends after about an hour. Given that the flight is weather-dependent and delays happen, giving yourself a few days around your planned flight date is sensible.

The Temples

Ananda Temple, built in 1105 CE, is the most celebrated: a cruciform design with four standing Buddha figures, each 9 metres tall, facing the cardinal directions. The exterior has intricate carved reliefs; the interior contains over 1,500 Jataka terracotta plaques depicting scenes from the Buddha’s previous lives.

Dhammayangyi is the largest temple in Bagan: built by King Narathu in the 12th century, who was assassinated before it was completed. The unusual quality of the brick construction – so precisely fitted that a needle cannot be inserted between courses in the lower sections – reflects a requirement that Narathu allegedly imposed on workers, executing masons whose work did not meet standard. The interior corridors are partially bricked up; the reason for this is debated.

Shwesandaw Pagoda was the main sunset viewing platform until the access was restricted due to damage from crowds climbing the terraces. Check current accessibility. The surrounding area in late afternoon light is still excellent for general photography even without climbing.

Thatbyinnyu Temple, at 61 metres, is the tallest structure in Bagan: two main stories representing the realms of humans and gods, built in the 12th century.

Exploring the Site

E-bike rental is the practical way to cover Bagan: quiet enough not to disturb other visitors, cheap, and gives access to the smaller unnamed temples away from the main circuit. Horse carts are the traditional alternative and move at a pace suited to serious looking. Avoid driving standard motorbikes; the dust and the crowds make e-bikes better.

Climbing on temple structures causes damage and is now prohibited on most monuments. The etiquette: shoes off before entering any temple regardless of size; dress covering shoulders and knees; photography of monks only with permission.

When to Go

October through February is the standard recommendation: cooler temperatures (the plain is genuinely hot from March through September), clearer air, and the balloon season running. October is ideal: comfortable temperatures, the balloons running, and fewer visitors than the December to January peak.

Staying and Eating

Nyaung U village and Old Bagan have the main concentration of accommodation. Bagan Lodge in Old Bagan has villas with gardens and easy temple access. For mid-range, properties in Nyaung U offer good value.

For food, Nyaung U market is the correct place for morning coffee and noodle soup. Local tea shops throughout the area serve Shan noodles, mohinga (fish broth noodle soup), and the sweet, strong tea that Myanmar runs on.