Bay of Islands New Zealand

Bay of Islands, New Zealand

The Treaty of Waitangi was signed here in February 1840 – a document between Maori chiefs and British Crown representatives that is formally New Zealand’s founding document and remains among the most contested pieces of paper in the country’s history. The Treaty Grounds at Waitangi, on a headland above the Waitangi River, hold Te Whare Runanga (a carved meeting house representing all New Zealand tribes), the Ngatokimatawhaorua ceremonial canoe, and an on-site museum that does not simplify what happened. If you understand the Treaty – what it promised, what was breached, what it means now – the rest of the Bay of Islands makes more sense.

The bay itself covers roughly 800 square kilometres of coastline, harbours, and open sea with over 140 islands. The water is clear, the wildlife is good (dolphins are resident year-round), and the history is unusually dense for a relatively small area.

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

The most significant single site in the bay. Entry for international visitors costs around NZD $60 and includes a guided tour and cultural performance. The carved details in the meeting house represent the genealogy of iwi (tribes) from across New Zealand. Allow two hours.

Russell

A 15-minute ferry from Paihia, Russell was one of the first permanent European settlements in New Zealand and holds the distinction of being briefly the capital. Christ Church (1836) is the oldest surviving church in the country; bullet holes from the period are still visible in the walls. The Pompallier Mission (1842), a French Catholic printing house, has been restored and offers guided tours on early colonial publishing. Russell is quieter than Paihia and worth a half-day.

Cape Brett and the Hole in the Rock

Boat excursions run east from Paihia to Piercy Island, which has a large natural arch through which boats pass when sea conditions allow. The trip takes about two hours each way and passes many of the smaller islands. On the return, dolphins are frequently encountered, and the operators hold permits for swim-with-dolphin experiences subject to dolphin behaviour.

Urupukapuka Island

The largest island in the bay is accessible by ferry from Paihia. Walking tracks take two to five hours, passing through regenerating native bush with views across the bay. The sheltered coves on the eastern side are good for snorkelling.

Where to Eat

The Duke of Marlborough in Russell has one of the oldest liquor licences in New Zealand and a waterfront dining room focused on local seafood. The Fishbone Bar and Grill in Paihia is the long-standing local favourite for fresh seafood in a casual setting. The Paihia Sunday morning market has local producers selling cheese, bread, honey, and prepared food.

Where to Stay

Paihia is the hub for accommodation and tour operators. Holiday homes in the smaller bays around the water offer more seclusion at similar or lower prices per person for groups. January and February are peak summer weeks – book well ahead for those periods. April through October is quieter, cheaper, and the water is still good.

Practical Notes

A car is useful for exploring beyond Paihia – the road north toward Cape Reinga is scenic and worth the time. The ferry between Paihia and Russell runs frequently and the crossing is 15 minutes.