Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis had a weather observatory at its summit from 1883 to 1904, and the data it collected about Scottish mountain weather was so extreme that scientists initially doubted it

Ben Nevis is 1,345 metres, the highest point in Britain and Ireland, and it is in the West Highlands above Fort William. The summit is below the cloud line for roughly 80% of the year. The observatory that operated there from 1883 to 1904 recorded winds exceeding 100 mph, temperatures below minus 17 degrees Celsius, and snowfall in every month of the year. The data was so far outside what observers at lower elevations expected that some questioned its accuracy. It was accurate. The summit ruins of the observatory are still visible and are part of what makes the mountain interesting beyond the walking itself.

The standard route is the Mountain Track (also called the Pony Track), which starts from the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre car park 2 kilometres from Fort William. The path climbs steadily at manageable gradients through moorland, past Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe (the halfway lochan), and then up a series of zigzags through boulder field to the summit plateau. Most fit walkers take five to seven hours return. The path is well-worn and navigable in good conditions, but the summit plateau is genuinely dangerous in poor visibility – the northern face drops sharply into cliffs that cannot be seen in cloud or snow. Compass work matters here even on what looks like a clear morning below.

The Carn Mor Dearg Arete

The CMD Arete is the route that serious hillwalkers do when they have visited Ben Nevis once already and want the mountain to mean something different. You climb Carn Mor Dearg (1,220 metres) first, then traverse the rocky arete connecting it to Ben Nevis. This is a scramble requiring confidence on exposed terrain, mountain experience, and the ability to navigate in cloud. It takes eight to nine hours return and gives you a view of the Ben Nevis north face – the great buttresses and gullies that the mountaineers work – from across the coire. Worth doing if you have the experience.

Glen Nevis

Glen Nevis below the mountain is one of the finer Highland glens: the river, the gorge downstream, the Steall waterfall at the end of the walk up the gorge (about 20 metres high, approached via a wire bridge over the river). The gorge walk to Steall is 2.5 kilometres each way and requires no special equipment. The waterfall is the easy half-day alternative for people who don’t want to climb the mountain.

Practical Notes

Ben Nevis is not a casual walk. The summit has recorded sub-zero temperatures and gale-force winds in midsummer. Every year, people are rescued or die on the mountain who were underprepared for the weather. Bring waterproofs, spare layers, a map, a compass, and more food than you think you need. Check the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) forecast for the Ben Nevis area specifically before departure – the summit forecast is materially different from the Fort William forecast.

For accommodation: the Ben Nevis Inn at the base of the mountain trail does solid pub food after a long day and has basic hostel accommodation. Glen Nevis Youth Hostel is well-positioned. Fort William has a full range of options at every price point.