Bhaktapur Durbar Square: Better Than Kathmandu, More Honest About It

Bhaktapur gets overlooked because it sits 13km east of Kathmandu and takes 45 minutes by bus or taxi to reach. That inconvenience is exactly what makes it better. The medieval city’s Durbar Square survived the 2015 earthquake better than Kathmandu’s own, and the reconstruction here has been more careful and less hurried. The Nyatapola Temple – five stories, built in 1702 under King Bhupatindra Malla, the tallest pagoda in Nepal – is still standing, still intact, still extraordinary. The fact that Bhaktapur charges a separate entry fee for foreign visitors (around 1,500 NPR, about $11) is part of why it remains in better shape: the revenue funds the upkeep, and the mild financial barrier keeps some of the most chaotic day-tripper traffic away.

The Three Squares

Bhaktapur’s historic area is actually three adjoining squares: the main Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square, and Dattatraya Square. Most visitors see the first and miss the others. That is a mistake.

Taumadhi Square holds the Nyatapola Temple: five-tiered, built in 1702, the five pairs of guardians on the staircases each said to be 10 times stronger than the figure below – from strong men to elephants, lions, griffins, and finally the goddesses Baghini and Simhini. The view from the café terraces around the square is excellent. 55-Window Palace in the main Durbar Square has a carved peacock window on its east side that is one of the finest examples of Newari woodcarving still in place. Visit in the morning when the light comes straight at it.

Dattatraya Square is quieter, older, and largely missed by day-trippers. The Pujari Math next to the Dattatraya Temple houses the national woodcarving museum – worth 30 minutes. The square is also where you find the best pottery shops if you want something made locally rather than imported from Kathmandu factories.

Pottery Square (Kumale Tol), a short walk from the main square, is where traditional potters still work on foot wheels. The flat rooftops nearby are often covered with Juju Dhau pots drying in the sun. Bhaktapur is famous throughout Nepal for Juju Dhau – a thick, slightly sweet curd served in clay cups. Eat it here, not in Kathmandu where it has spent hours in transit.

Eating

Café Nyatapola sits directly opposite the five-tiered temple, up a wooden staircase. Tourist-facing, yes, but the rooftop terrace view is the best in the square, and the dal bhat (350-500 NPR) and coffee are reliable. For a more local experience, walk away from the main square into the residential lanes and find the small dai shops serving sel roti (slightly sweet rice-flour rings) and tea in the morning. They open around 06:00 and are largely invisible to tourists despite being 50 metres from the action. The Juju Dhau sellers along the lane toward Taumadhi Square charge 30-50 NPR per cup; the restaurants near the square charge three times that for the same thing.

Staying in Bhaktapur

Most people visit as a day trip from Kathmandu, but staying overnight transforms the experience. By 17:00, the day-tripper buses are gone and the city returns to something closer to itself. Dawn at the empty squares before 07:00 is a different place entirely.

Bhadgaon Guest House is inside the historic core, costs around $25-35 for a double, and has a decent courtyard breakfast. Basic rooms but exceptional location. Hotel Heritage offers more comfort with traditional Newari architecture preserved, around $60-90 per night. Shiva Guest House is family-run and very cheap – the right choice for solo travellers who want a base rather than an experience.

Getting There

From Kathmandu’s Ratna Park bus station: public bus takes 45-60 minutes and costs around 25 NPR (under $0.25). Shared microvans from Bagbazar run 30-35 NPR and are faster. A private taxi from Thamel runs 700-1,000 NPR one way. The entry ticket covers multiple entries on the same day; wardens check at several points around the city, not just at the main gate. Keep it.

When to Go

Early morning (07:00-09:00) before the day-tripper buses arrive is when you get the squares nearly to yourself. Avoid major festival days if you want to walk comfortably – Bisket Jatra (April, Nepali New Year) and Indra Jatra (August/September) bring crowds that make the lanes impractical. On any other day, Bhaktapur is more manageable, more authentic, and more rewarding than anything Kathmandu’s Durbar Square offers since the earthquake.