Brooklyn Bridge

The Brooklyn Bridge

When the Brooklyn Bridge opened on May 24, 1883, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world. The chief engineer, John Roebling, never saw it finished – he died from tetanus after injuring his foot during early survey work on the site. His son Washington Roebling took over and oversaw most of the construction, then contracted caisson disease (decompression sickness) from working in the compressed-air foundations underwater, and directed the final years of the project from his apartment in Brooklyn Heights through a telescope, with his wife Emily relaying instructions. The bridge is one of the great engineering achievements of the 19th century and has a family story behind it that reads like a novel.

You can walk across it for free in about 20-30 minutes. The views of Lower Manhattan and Brooklyn are excellent. Early morning – before 9am – gives you the crossing with far fewer other pedestrians than the midday crush. At sunset, the light comes from the right angle for photographs toward Manhattan.

Walking the Bridge

The pedestrian walkway runs above the vehicle lanes, accessible from both sides. Start from the Brooklyn side if you want the best views toward Manhattan; the skyline comes at you progressively as you cross. The Gothic stone towers are better appreciated up close on the bridge than from any distance; the scale of the stonework is part of what makes the crossing worth doing even if you’ve seen the bridge a hundred times from the water.

A note on cyclists: the walkway is shared with bikes and the division is poorly marked. Stay on the pedestrian side and watch for cyclists who treat the bridge as a commute route rather than a tourist experience.

DUMBO and Brooklyn Heights

DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) sits below the Brooklyn end of the bridge. The neighbourhood has galleries, boutique shops, and the most photographed street in New York: Washington Street, where the framing of the Manhattan Bridge between the buildings produces a view that has appeared in more Instagram posts than any other spot in the city. Jane’s Carousel, a restored 1920s merry-go-round in a Jean Nouvel-designed glass pavilion on the waterfront, is a genuine pleasure.

Brooklyn Heights, five minutes north of DUMBO, is one of the better-preserved 19th-century residential neighbourhoods in New York. The Promenade offers the best unobstructed view of the Manhattan skyline and the bridge without the bridge itself being in the way.

Where to Eat

Grimaldi’s under the Manhattan Bridge in DUMBO does coal-oven Neapolitan pizza that has been a Brooklyn institution since 1990. It gets crowded; the queue is worth it. The River Cafe at the base of the bridge on the Brooklyn side serves upscale American food with views of the bridge and Manhattan; it is expensive and the setting earns it. For something cheaper: Time Out Market New York in DUMBO collects a range of New York food vendors under one roof and is more interesting than it sounds.

Where to Stay

1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge is the standout luxury option, with rooms facing the bridge and the river, sustainably-minded design, and a rooftop terrace that is one of the better elevated views in the borough. The hotel opened in 2017 and remains the best address near the bridge. Mid-range options in DUMBO and Williamsburg are plentiful and mostly good value by Manhattan standards.

Practical Notes

The bridge is free to walk and free to cycle (bicycles are not permitted on the bridge’s lower vehicle lanes). The Brooklyn-side entrance on Washington Street near the Manhattan Bridge is the standard starting point. The Manhattan-side entrance is near City Hall Park. The bridge is open 24 hours; early morning for light and low crowds, late evening for the lit Manhattan skyline.

Take the A/C train to High Street-Brooklyn Bridge station for the Brooklyn entrance, or the 4/5/6 to Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall for the Manhattan side.