Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires: The City That Eats at Midnight and Dances Until Dawn

In April 2025, Argentina’s Milei government lifted most currency controls, backed by a $20 billion IMF agreement, and the parallel peso market that had defined the traveller experience for years largely collapsed. The blue dollar, MEP rate, and official rate converged to within a few percent of each other – around 1,430-1,460 pesos per dollar by early 2026. Buenos Aires is still excellent value by Western European or North American standards; a comfortable mid-range budget runs about USD 100-120 per day. The money logistics are now significantly simpler than they were two years ago.

The city runs on a noticeably different schedule from most others: restaurants fill at 10pm, bars open properly after midnight, clubs run until 6am, and the streets are genuinely active at 2am on weekdays. Adjusting to this schedule rather than fighting it is the most useful adaptation a visitor can make.

The Neighbourhoods

Buenos Aires is divided into barrios, each with a distinct character. San Telmo is the oldest, with cobblestone streets and antique dealers. Palermo (subdivided endlessly – Palermo Soho, Hollywood, Chico) is where restaurants, boutiques, and parks cluster. Recoleta is the cemetery and museum district. La Boca is the working-class barrio that became a tourist draw via the Caminito pedestrian street. San Telmo and Palermo are where most visitors spend their time, and both are worth it for different reasons.

Eating

Buenos Aires runs on beef and you should order accordingly. A parrilla meal centres on cuts from a list: bife de chorizo (sirloin, not sausage), ojo de bife (ribeye), entraña (skirt steak). Don Julio on Guatemala Street in Palermo is the most celebrated parrilla, with queues on weekends and advance booking wise. A full meal for two with wine runs approximately USD 35-50 per person at current rates, depending on how aggressively you order. Proper Argentine beef at this level is different from most imported beef elsewhere – grassfed, aged, and handled correctly.

Facturas at corner bakeries are the morning ritual: medialunas (croissants, slightly sweeter than French versions), vigilantes (rectangular pastries with quince paste), and tortitas negras (molasses biscuits). Coffee and three medialunas at a corner bar costs a few dollars at current rates. A cubierto (cover charge) appears on most restaurant bills; it is not a tip but a table charge for bread and setup.

Tip 10% for satisfactory service; pay tips in pesos. Tegui in Palermo is the tasting menu restaurant in a converted house with no sign outside – among Latin America’s best, reservation required weeks ahead.

San Telmo Sunday Market

The Feria de San Telmo on Calle Defensa runs every Sunday from 10am through evening. Stalls sell antiques, leather goods, silver, art, and crafted items; Plaza Dorrego in the centre has tango performance for street donations. The market extends over 30 blocks along Defensa. The northern end near Av. San Juan has better quality antique dealers; the southern end leans toward clothes and tourist goods.

Recoleta

The Recoleta Cemetery is a city-within-a-city of elaborate above-ground mausoleums, none younger than a century, housing the prominent families of Argentine history. Eva Peron’s tomb is modest relative to its neighbours, in the Duarte family vault. Entry is free; guided tours cost around ARS 3,000-4,000 and add context the signage doesn’t provide. The MALBA (Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires) on Figueroa Alcorta is one of the better modern art museums in the region.

Getting Around

The SUBE card works on subways (the Subte), buses, and commuter trains; load credit at kioscos (corner shops) throughout the city. The Subte is limited in coverage compared to the bus network, but fast between points it does cover. Uber operates in Buenos Aires. For taxis, use Radio Taxi companies rather than unmarked street hails.