Chateau De Chambord

Chambord: The Castle That Francis I Visited Fewer Than 50 Times and Left Unfinished

Francis I commissioned Chambord in 1519 as a hunting lodge, a category that, in the vocabulary of the French Renaissance, permitted 440 rooms, 365 chimneys, and the most elaborate double-helix staircase in Europe. He visited the castle for a total of around 72 nights across his reign, mostly for stag hunting in the surrounding royal forest. The castle was never fully completed to the original design; the wings were left unfinished and are still unfinished today. Whether this was due to budget constraints, changing priorities, or simply the end of Francis’s reign in 1547 is a matter of historical debate.

The double-helix staircase, two intertwining spiral staircases that allow two people to ascend and descend simultaneously without ever meeting, has been attributed to Leonardo da Vinci, who was living at the nearby Château du Clos Lucé in Amboise during the early construction years. No documentary evidence survives confirming this attribution, and the debate continues. What is certain is that Chambord is the largest château in the Loire Valley, a World Heritage Site, and genuinely among the most extraordinary buildings in France.

Visiting

Entry is €14.50 for adults; the grounds are free and worth walking for the exterior views. The interior has been significantly reinterpreted in recent years with modern exhibition design explaining the history of the construction and the hunting lodge use.

The roof terrace is the main draw inside: a village of chimneys, turrets, dormers, and lanterns at close range, with the Loire Valley visible in every direction. Most visitors underestimate how interesting the roof is and rush through it. Allow 90 minutes minimum for the full visit.

Chambord is 14km east of Blois and has no practical public transport connections. From Blois you need either a car, a bicycle (the Loire à Vélo route passes close), or the summer shuttle bus. The car park can be crowded in July and August; arriving before 9am ensures a quieter experience.

The Forest

The 5,500-hectare Domaine national de Chambord surrounding the château is the largest enclosed forest in Europe, still used for hunting (controlled by the national domain). Walking and cycling routes run through the forest beyond the immediate château area. The best way to see Chambord is to arrive on the Loire à Vélo cycling route from Amboise or Blois, which brings you through forest rather than by road.

Where to Stay

Blois or Amboise are the practical overnight bases with train connections. Staying in the immediately Chambord area is possible at a few small hotels and guesthouses; the Auberge du Grand Saint-Michel by the château gates is the most convenient, rooms from around €80-120 per night. A week’s cycle touring base covering Chambord, Chenonceau, and Amboise is a well-established itinerary that the Loire à Vélo cycling route supports well.