Cologne Cathedral

Cologne Cathedral

The Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) was begun in 1248 and completed in 1880 – a gap of 632 years during which construction essentially stopped for most of the medieval and early modern periods before resuming in the 19th century. The result is the largest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe, with twin spires rising to 157 metres that make it the most recognisable element of the Cologne skyline from every approach. For 4 years after completion in 1880 it was the tallest structure in the world.

The building survived the Second World War in a way that seems improbable: Cologne was heavily bombed and the city around the cathedral was largely flattened, but the cathedral itself, though hit multiple times, remained standing. The ruins of the city visible from the undamaged spires in 1945 photographs are some of the defining images of European war damage. Whether the Allies deliberately avoided hitting the cathedral as a navigation landmark is a matter of ongoing historical debate. What is not debated is that it survived.

Entry to the cathedral is free. The tower climb (533 steps) costs €6 for adults. The cathedral is open daily 06:00-21:00.

What to See

The Shrine of the Three Kings (Dreikönigsschrein) in the choir is reputedly the largest medieval reliquary in the world and the reason the cathedral was built at this location: the alleged relics of the Magi were brought to Cologne from Milan in 1164 and their acquisition made the city a major pilgrimage destination that justified the enormous construction project that followed. The shrine is a 13th-century goldsmith masterpiece, nearly 2 metres long, covered in gold, silver, gemstones, and enamel work.

The Gero Cross in the Chapel of the Cross, dating from around 970 AD, is the oldest surviving large-scale crucifix north of the Alps.

The stained glass includes a recent addition that divides opinion: the Richter Window, installed in 2007 in the south transept by artist Gerhard Richter, is 113 square metres of 11,500 richly coloured squares in a pixelated pattern with no figurative imagery. Cardinal Joachim Meisner, the then-Archbishop of Cologne, publicly described it as looking like a “mosque carpet.” Richter considered it a meditation on the experience of light. The controversy made it more photographed than many of the medieval windows.

The Neighbourhood and Practicalities

Cologne Hauptbahnhof (the main train station) is directly adjacent to the cathedral – literally the second thing you see after exiting the station is the south facade of the building, 50 metres away. This makes it the most accessible major cathedral in Europe by rail. The Hohenzollern Bridge over the Rhine, a 5-minute walk from the cathedral, is covered in padlocks left by couples. The view from the bridge toward the cathedral is one of the more photographed angles in Cologne.

For Kölsch beer (served in small cylindrical glasses, continuously refilled until you cover your glass), Brauhaus Sion on Unter Taschenmacher is the traditional starting point. For better food in a similar setting, Zum Pflüger on Rathausplatz is a solid local favourite.

The Christmas Market in December runs around the cathedral and is genuinely well-done by German standards.