Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi: The Central Ghat on the Ganges

Dashashwamedh is the most prominent of Varanasi’s 88 ghats – the stone steps that descend from the old city to the western bank of the Ganges. It sits at the end of Dashashwamedh Road, the main artery from the railway station, which means it receives more foot traffic than any other ghat in the city. Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world; the ghat’s name translates as “ten sacrificed horses” and refers to a creation myth in which Brahma performed a ritual sacrifice here to welcome Shiva back to the city. Whether or not the mythology is taken literally, this has been the ceremonial and commercial heart of the city’s relationship with the river for a very long time.

Ganga Aarti

The nightly ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat is the largest of several aarti performances along the ghats and runs for roughly 45 minutes. Priests in saffron robes conduct it using large multi-tiered brass lamps, incense, and bells while Vedic chants are amplified across the water. The spectacle draws both pilgrims and tourists in large numbers – several hundred on the ghat steps, more watching from boats. Arrive 30-40 minutes before sunset to get a clear sightline. October to March the aarti begins around 18:00-18:30; in summer closer to 19:00-19:30.

Boat Rides at Dawn

A boat ride at dawn is one of the more effective ways to see the ghats without being compressed in the crowds. Boatmen work the main ghat from before sunrise. The standard route covers roughly 3km, from Assi Ghat in the south to Raj Ghat in the north, taking 60-90 minutes. Negotiate the rate before boarding; shared boats run around INR 100-200 per person, private boats INR 500-800 for the vessel.

The early morning on the ghats is genuinely different from other times of day. Pilgrims bathe and perform prayers; sadhus sit on the upper steps; washermen pound laundry; cremation fires burn continuously at Manikarnika Ghat, 500 metres north. This is the city at its least commercial.

Manikarnika Ghat

Varanasi is one of the main Hindu cremation sites in India. Manikarnika Ghat runs 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, with an estimated 80-100 bodies cremated daily. The ghat is visible from the river and from the steps. Photographs are prohibited and the restriction is enforced by the men who manage the burning grounds. Walking through is permitted; standing and staring is not. A full cremation requires 300-400kg of wood at a cost of INR 3,000-15,000 depending on quality.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple

400 metres north of the ghat, one of twelve jyotirlinga Shiva shrines considered among the most sacred in India. The current structure dates from 1780; the original was demolished in 1669. Security screening is thorough; leave phones, cameras, and bags at designated storage. The Kashi Vishwanath Corridor, completed in 2021, has widened access from the ghats and improved navigation for first-time visitors.

Sarnath

11km northeast of central Varanasi (auto-rickshaw 30-40 minutes, around INR 150-200). This is where the Buddha delivered his first sermon after enlightenment, approximately 528 BCE. The Dhamek Stupa marks the location. The Archaeological Museum here holds the Lion Capital of Ashoka – the 3rd-century BCE sculpture that became India’s national emblem. Entry INR 300 for foreigners.

Eating

Blue Lassi in Kachori Gali near the Vishwanath Temple: a small shop making thick fresh-fruit lassi since the 1920s, served in terracotta cups. INR 80-150. Kashi Chaat Bhandar at Godowlia crossing: consistently recommended for tamatar chaat and local street snacks. Full snack order INR 50-100.

Practical Notes

The old city is not navigable by vehicle. Auto-rickshaws reach Godowlia and Lahurabir; walking is required from there. October to March is the comfortable visiting window. The monsoon (July-September) raises the river and may submerge lower ghats.