Drottningholm Palace: Sweden’s Royal Residence, Open to Visitors

The Drottningholm Court Theatre, completed in 1766, is one of the most perfectly preserved 18th-century theatres in the world, the original stage machinery, painted backdrops, and backstage areas with wigs, costumes, and props still in place. While other European courts stripped and rebuilt their theatres in the 19th century to accommodate gas lighting and Victorian tastes, Drottningholm’s was simply locked up when it fell out of fashion, and the contents were forgotten. When it was rediscovered in 1921, it was essentially untouched. In summer it hosts Baroque opera performances using the original machinery for flying effects and scene changes, one of the stranger and more extraordinary cultural experiences available in Scandinavia.

Drottningholm Palace is the Swedish royal family’s private residence, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and open to the public for most of the year.

The complex covers three main parts: the palace itself, the baroque formal gardens, and the 18th-century theatre. Getting there from Stockholm city centre takes about 30 minutes by boat from Stadshuskajen, which is by far the better approach. The boat runs from late April through September, costs around SEK 130 return, and puts you directly at the palace landing stage.

The Palace

State apartments on the ground floor and first floor are open for self-guided tours, around SEK 180 per adult. The decoration ranges from the 17th-century painted ceilings in the Hedvig Eleonora State Bedchamber to the elaborate Rococo interiors remodelled in the 18th century. The Staircase Hall is the showpiece room, with trompe l’oeil architecture painted to look three-dimensional.

The Chinese Pavilion in the grounds deserves attention. Built in 1753 as a birthday surprise for Queen Lovisa Ulrika, it’s a summer tea house in 18th-century European chinoiserie style, decorated with lacquerwork, silk wallcoverings, and furniture made to imitate what Swedes imagined Chinese interiors to look like. Very few people bother visiting it. Separate ticket (SEK 150) and it has its own small museum of Chinese and Japanese decorative arts.

The Theatre

The Drottningholm Court Theatre dates from 1766 and is extraordinary because it survived the 18th century intact: original stage machinery, painted backdrops, and changing rooms with wigs and costumes still in place. In summer it hosts performances of Baroque opera under historically informed conditions, using the original machinery to create flying effects and scene changes. Tickets go quickly; the opera season runs June to September. Museum visits without a performance are available: SEK 120.

The Gardens

The French formal garden between the palace and the lake has axes and parterres in the style of Versailles’s garden, though much smaller. It’s fine. The English park section further back is more interesting: informal, with winding paths and the Chinese Pavilion at its centre. Both are free to enter.

Where to Eat

The Palace Café in the courtyard does coffee, sandwiches, and pastries at Stockholm prices (SEK 50-80 for coffee and a cake). For a proper meal, you’ll need to either bring a picnic (the grounds are good for this) or take the boat back to Stockholm. The boat journey itself, across Lake Mälaren with views of the waterway and the city approaching, is worth treating as part of the experience.

Practical Notes

The palace is open May through September for full access; some rooms are accessible in winter but the theatre and gardens are limited. Royal family residence means some areas occasionally close without notice. Arrive by 10:00 to beat coach parties. The whole visit including theatre, palace, and Chinese Pavilion takes around 4 hours at a reasonable pace. Stockholm’s public transport doesn’t reach Lovön well; the boat is the practical choice, not just the scenic one.