Glacier Bay National Park Alaska

Glacier Bay National Park, Alaska

In 1750, the entirety of Glacier Bay was covered by a single glacier up to 1,200 metres thick. By 1880, when naturalist John Muir first visited, the bay had retreated 75km and was open water. Today, that retreat has extended to over 100km from the original glacier face. Glacier Bay is perhaps the most dramatic visible evidence of post-Ice Age climate dynamics anywhere on earth, and that’s before recent climate change is added to the picture. The tidewater glaciers at the bay’s head are still retreating, and the landscape is in constant geological motion in a way that few places on earth demonstrate so clearly.

Glacier Bay requires effort to reach and rewards that effort considerably. The park covers 3.3 million acres of southeastern Alaska and includes over 1,000 glaciers. The bay itself was almost entirely covered by a single massive glacier as recently as 1750. Now it’s open water with tidewater glaciers at its head, and the pace of glacial retreat here has become one of the most dramatic examples of climate change visible to the naked eye.

There are no roads into Glacier Bay. You get there by small plane to Gustavus or by boat.

Getting There

Fly from Juneau to Gustavus Airport (about 25 minutes, multiple daily flights in season). From Gustavus, a short shuttle ride takes you to Bartlett Cove, the park’s only developed area. Alternatively, Glacier Bay is a major destination on Alaska cruise itineraries, and the park limits cruise ship numbers to a set quota per day. If you’re on a cruise, the day in the bay is genuinely one of the better ones.

What to Do

The dominant experience is the boat tour. The park’s own tour boat runs daily in summer from Bartlett Cove and travels about 130 miles round-trip up the bay to the active tidewater glaciers at the head, Margerie Glacier and Grand Pacific Glacier. Margerie calves regularly; you hear the cracks and rumbles before anything falls. Tickets are around $225 per adult. Allow the full day.

Kayaking is the other major activity. You can paddle independently or join a guided multi-day trip. The upper bay requires more logistical planning (water taxis to drop you further up), but even a few hours paddling around the calmer lower bay around Bartlett Cove is worthwhile. Dry suits are available to hire.

Hiking around Bartlett Cove is limited but pleasant. The Forest Loop Trail takes about an hour and passes through the early-stage forest colonising land the glacier released relatively recently.

Wildlife is abundant. Humpback whales feed in the bay throughout summer. Orcas are frequently spotted. Brown and black bears patrol the shorelines. Mountain goats appear on the steep cliffs above the glaciers.

Where to Stay

Glacier Bay Lodge is the only accommodation within the park, sitting at Bartlett Cove. Rooms are basic but comfortable, and the dining room does better food than you’d expect given the remoteness. Book well in advance, capacity is limited and summer dates fill months ahead.

In Gustavus itself (population around 450), Annie Mae Lodge and Glacier Bay Country Inn are well-regarded smaller options.

Practicalities

• Season runs mid-May through mid-September. Outside that window almost everything is closed.
• Mosquitoes in June are serious. Bring a head net.
• Weather is highly changeable. Pack waterproofs regardless of the forecast.
• Free camping permits are available from the visitor centre at Bartlett Cove. Register the night before your departure.
• Bears are active throughout the park. Food storage protocols apply and rangers are strict about them.