Glacier of Aletsch

Aletsch Glacier, Switzerland

The Aletsch Glacier is retreating at about 60 metres per year, and that rate has been accelerating. The dark medial moraines running the glacier’s length like lanes on a highway are deposits of accumulated rock where tributary glaciers merged with the main flow, laid down over centuries. They function as a geological record: the distance between moraine lines tells you how the glacier moved in different periods. The viewing platform at Moosfluh above Riederalp shows a glacier that has pulled back significantly from where it stood in historical photographs taken from the same spot. The UNESCO World Heritage listing covering this area is partly a recognition of what is being lost.

The Aletsch is the largest glacier in the Alps, 23km long, up to 900 metres thick, covering around 81 square kilometres. It begins at the Jungfraujoch saddle and flows south through the canton of Valais, ending above the Rhône valley at Brig. It’s been retreating at an accelerating rate: about 60 metres per year in recent decades. The UNESCO World Heritage listing covers the Jungfrau-Aletsch area, which includes the glacier, the high mountain plateau above it, and the surrounding forests.

The ice shows the characteristic medial moraines, the dark lines of accumulated rock running the length of the glacier, deposited where tributary glaciers merged with the main flow. From the viewing platforms, these lines are readable as a kind of geological clock.

Getting There

The glacier is not accessible from road level. Access is via mountain railways and cable cars, all of which cost money.

The Riederalp and Bettmeralp side (north bank): drive or train to Mörel, then cable car to Riederalp (around CHF 30-35 return) or Bettmeralp. Both car-free villages have viewing paths above the glacier. The Moosfluh viewpoint above Riederalp gives one of the best accessible views of the full glacier length.

The Jungfraujoch approach: the Jungfraujoch railway from Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen climbs to 3,454 metres and gives a high-altitude view of the glacier’s source. Adult return fare is around CHF 235 at full price; the “Good Morning Ticket” (early departure, return by 13:00) costs around CHF 155. The Sphinx Observatory on Jungfraujoch gives close-range views of the upper glacier and the surrounding 4,000-metre peaks.

Hiking

The Aletsch Panoramaweg (panorama trail) runs along the north bank of the glacier from Bettmeralp to Riederalp, roughly 10km and 3-4 hours. Trail conditions vary seasonally, check locally before setting out. The high route (Höhenweg) at 2,200-2,400 metres elevation gives the best sustained views.

Guided glacier walks on the ice surface are available from operators in Brig and the surrounding valleys. These require crampons (provided) and a guide, walking on a moving glacier without a guide is not recommended.

Practical Notes

The mountain villages are car-free; leave your vehicle at the cable car valley stations. Accommodation at Riederalp and Bettmeralp tends to be expensive; staying in Brig or Mörel in the valley and taking the cable car daily is cheaper. Summer season runs roughly June-October for hiking; December-April for skiing on the surrounding slopes.

The glacier is retreating measurably year by year. The view from the Moosfluh in 2024 shows a glacier that has pulled back significantly from historical photographs taken from the same point. This is worth bearing in mind when visiting.