Glowworm Cave

Waitomo Glowworm Caves: What Actually Happens Inside

The glowworms are not worms. They are the larval stage of Arachnocampa luminosa, a fungus gnat found only in New Zealand and parts of eastern Australia. The larva hangs from a silk thread and produces bioluminescent light from its tail end, which attracts small insects into other silk threads below it. When thousands of them cover a cave ceiling, the effect from a boat in darkness is a close, still version of a clear night sky: blue-green dots in every direction with no reference point to calibrate their distance. The boats pass through in silence because noise causes the larvae to extinguish their light.

Waitomo sits 2.5 hours south of Auckland in the King Country region of the North Island. The caves are limestone, 30 million years old, with formations including stalactites and the much larger Cathedral chamber, a space with acoustics good enough that the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra has performed here.

The Standard Tour

The guided tour starts from about NZD 85 for adults (check the operator for current rates). It runs 45 minutes, covers the Cathedral chamber and limestone formations, and ends with the boat ride through the glowworm grotto. The caves are open 9am to 5pm daily with tours through the day, and photography and filming are not allowed. Book ahead in January and February when domestic summer holiday crowds fill sessions quickly.

Ruakuri Cave

The neighbouring Ruakuri system is a separate 2-hour tour starting from about NZD 122 for adults. Ruakuri is wetter and more dramatic: an elevated walkway spirals through limestone formations, underground waterfalls are audible and visible, and a longer stretch of glowworm-lit passages than the standard cave. For adults, Ruakuri is arguably the better experience in total, though the Glowworm Caves’ boat ride is unique. A combination ticket for the Glowworm Cave and Ruakuri starts from about NZD 179 for adults, so check the operator for current rates.

Black Water Rafting

The Black Water Rafting Company runs two experiences. The Black Labyrinth (from about NZD 199, 3 hours, minimum age 12) involves floating on inflated rubber tubes through underground passages lit by glowworms. The Black Abyss (from about NZD 332, 5 hours, minimum age 16) includes a 35-metre abseil and a zipline. Both require physical confidence and willingness to spend time cold and wet. These tours are the reason some visitors come to Waitomo specifically.

Getting There

State Highway 37 runs to Waitomo from SH3 near Hangatiki, between Otorohanga and Te Kuiti. No train. The InterCity coach from Auckland takes about 3 hours 40 minutes to the Waitomo Caves i-SITE, so check the operator for a same-day return. Driving from Auckland takes about 2.5 to 3 hours.

Where to Stay

Waitomo has limited accommodation. Waitomo Caves Guest Lodge (a B&B) and Waitomo Top 10 Holiday Park, about 600 metres from the Glowworm Cave, are the places to stay in the village. Most visitors day-trip from Rotorua (about 2 hours east) or Hamilton (about 1 hour north). If you’re driving between Auckland and Rotorua, Waitomo is a detour of well over an hour but is the logical way to include it in a North Island itinerary.

The caves are cool whatever the weather outside, so bring a light jacket.