Himalayas

The Himalayas: How to Actually Choose Where to Go

The Himalayas stretch 2,400 kilometres across five countries, so “I want to visit the Himalayas” is not a plan, it’s a starting point. The range means fundamentally different things depending on whether you’re approaching from Nepal, India, Bhutan, or Tibet. Each has distinct visa requirements, trekking seasons, and practical considerations. Here’s a useful breakdown.

Nepal: Highest Density of Classic Routes

Nepal contains eight of the world’s fourteen 8,000m peaks and an infrastructure that has evolved over 50 years to serve trekkers. Kathmandu is the entry point; fly into Tribhuvan International (KTM). The Everest Base Camp trek from Lukla takes 12-14 days and requires a TIMS card (USD$20) and Sagarmatha National Park entry permit (NPR4,000, about $30). A licensed guide costs USD$25-35 per day; hiring one reduces altitude sickness risk significantly because they know when to slow down.

Pokhara, five hours west of Kathmandu by bus or 25 minutes by plane, is the gateway to the Annapurna Circuit. It’s also, frankly, a pleasant lakeside town where you can eat good dal bhat for NPR300-400 and watch Machhapuchhre (Fishtail Mountain) turn pink at sunrise from your guesthouse balcony. The ACAP permit for the Annapurna Conservation Area costs NPR3,000.

Langtang Valley, three hours north of Kathmandu by jeep, is underrated. The 2015 earthquake destroyed the original Langtang village; the rebuilt version is smaller but the valley landscape is unchanged. Fewer trekkers than Everest or Annapurna means actual space on the trail.

India: Ladakh and the Trans-Himalaya

Ladakh is in the Himalayas technically, though much of the landscape is high-altitude desert above the tree line. Leh, the capital, sits at 3,524m; acclimatise for two days before doing anything strenuous. The Hemis, Thiksey, and Diskit monasteries are worth the jeep rides. The Nubra Valley, accessible via the 5,359m Khardung La Pass (claimed but not verified as the world’s highest motorable road), has sand dunes and Bactrian camels, which is a genuinely strange combination at altitude.

Himachal Pradesh offers Manali as a more accessible entry. Spiti Valley, east of Manali, is spectacular and receives far fewer visitors than Ladakh. Road conditions are rough and the season is short (June to September).

Bhutan: Managed but Excellent

The Sustainable Development Fee ($100/day for most nationalities, reduced in low season) keeps crowds low and revenue high. The Paro Valley, home to Tiger’s Nest Monastery, is genuinely exceptional. Trekking routes like the Snowman Trek (24 days, extremely remote) are among the hardest and most beautiful walks in Asia. Book through a licensed Bhutanese tour operator; independent travel is not permitted.

What to Eat Across the Region

Momos appear everywhere and vary enormously. In Nepal, the best are in Thamel’s backstreet restaurants (NPR150-200 for a plate of 10). In Bhutan, ema datshi, the chili-and-cheese stew, is worth understanding before you arrive: those green things in your bowl are not capsicums, they are fresh chilies. In Ladakh, thukpa (noodle soup with vegetables and sometimes yak meat) is the practical mountain lunch for around INR120-180.

Altitude and Timing

Acclimatise properly. The standard advice: ascend no more than 300-500m per day above 3,000m, rest every third day, descend immediately if you develop severe headache, confusion, or loss of balance. These are not optional suggestions.

The pre-monsoon window (March-May) and post-monsoon (October-November) are optimal for Nepal and Bhutan. Ladakh is best June through September. December through February is cold enough to close most high passes and make trekking genuinely miserable; the monasteries are quieter, at least.