Hue Vietnam

Hue: Vietnam’s Most Overlooked City and Its Very Good Food

Hue was the capital of Vietnam under the Nguyen Dynasty from 1802 to 1945. The Imperial Citadel on the north bank of the Perfume River is the central attraction, but the city’s actual claim is its cuisine: a distinct school of Vietnamese cooking that developed to satisfy an imperial court and that still dominates the local restaurants and street stalls. Hue food is spicier, more complex in flavour, and more visually elaborate than what you find in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City.

Imperial Citadel

The citadel complex covers 6 square kilometres and is enclosed by moats and 10-metre walls. It was heavily damaged in the 1968 Tet Offensive and took decades to begin recovering. Ongoing restoration work means scaffolding is visible in sections, but the scale of the complex is striking regardless. Entry costs VND 200,000 (about USD 8).

The principal buildings inside include the Ngo Mon Gate, the Thai Hoa Palace (where the emperor received officials), and the Mieu Temple complex. The Forbidden Purple City at the centre was the emperor’s private compound and is largely in ruins, the open space giving a clearer sense of the original footprint than the restored sections do. Allow 2-3 hours.

The Royal Tombs

Seven royal tombs are scattered across the hills south of the city, each 3-10km from the centre. The most visited are Tu Duc, Minh Mang, and Khai Dinh. Tu Duc is the most extensive, with a lake, pavilions, and garden areas set over 12 hectares; the emperor used it as a retreat during his lifetime. Khai Dinh, built 1920-1931, is architecturally distinct from the others, mixing Vietnamese motifs with European Baroque elements and completely covering its interior walls in mosaic. Each tomb has a separate entry fee of VND 100,000-150,000 or a combined ticket covers all royal sites for VND 520,000.

Food

Hue is where bun bo Hue originated: a beef noodle soup spiced with lemongrass and shrimp paste, significantly more assertive than pho. A bowl at a street stall costs VND 30,000-50,000. Com hen is steamed rice with baby river mussels, peanuts, sesame, and a complex sauce; it is served at modest local restaurants and street stalls for VND 20,000-35,000 and is the dish that most specifically belongs to Hue. Banh khot Hue (small savoury crêpes with prawn filling) and nem lui (lemongrass pork skewers wrapped in rice paper) are the other local specialities.

Dong Ba Market on the north bank is the main food market: fresh produce, prepared food stalls, and vendors selling every local ingredient. The market runs from 6am and the cooked food section is best in the early morning.

Getting Around

The city is navigable by bicycle; guesthouses rent them for VND 30,000-50,000 per day. The tombs require either a motorbike, hired car, or a motorbike taxi (xe om) since they are spread across a wide area. A xe om driver for a half-day tombs circuit costs around VND 150,000-200,000.

Getting to Hue

Phu Bai Airport (HUI) receives flights from Hanoi (1 hour, VND 500,000-1,200,000) and Ho Chi Minh City (1.5 hours, similar price range). The train from Hanoi (Reunification Express) takes around 14 hours and passes through the Hai Van Pass, which has good coastal views. A sleeper cabin costs around VND 400,000-600,000. The train is slower than flying but the scenery on the final section justifies it if you have the time.

Two full days gives enough time for the citadel, two or three tombs, and eating properly. One day is a compressed version that skips the tombs.