Jungles of Borneo

Borneo: Orangutans, Proboscis Monkeys, and One of the World’s Oldest Rainforests

The rainforest on Borneo has been continuously forested for approximately 130 million years, having persisted through the ice ages that stripped the forests of other regions. This antiquity produces the biodiversity: species evolved in isolation over longer timescales, with nowhere else to go, produce the endemic concentration that makes Borneo one of the most species-rich places on earth. The Kinabatangan River floodplain in Sabah may have more individual large mammals visible per unit area than any other site in Southeast Asia.

Borneo is the third-largest island in the world, shared between Malaysia (Sabah and Sarawak states), Indonesia (Kalimantan), and Brunei. The Malaysian states are the most accessible entry points for most visitors; Kalimantan offers more remote experiences for those willing to work harder for them.

Sabah: Orangutans and the Kinabatangan

Kota Kinabalu (KK), Sabah’s capital, is the main gateway: flights from Kuala Lumpur take 2.5 hours on AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines. The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, 2 hours by bus from KK, rehabilitates orphaned and rescued orangutans before releasing them to the wild. The twice-daily feeding platforms (9am and 3pm) draw wild individuals from the surrounding forest. Entry is RM 30. The animals are genuinely wild and their participation is voluntary; sightings are not guaranteed, which is what distinguishes this from a zoo.

The Kinabatangan River is the proper wildlife experience in Sabah: a river cruise from lodges at Sukau or Bilit produces pygmy elephant sightings (Borneo’s pygmy elephant is a distinct subspecies, smaller and with larger ears than mainland Asian elephants), proboscis monkey groups (the monkeys’ distinctive oversized noses are real, not a cartoon), and occasionally wild orangutans in the riverbank trees. A two-night stay with guided boat cruises costs USD 150 to 300 per person inclusive; Sukau Rainforest Lodge and Bilit Rainforest Lodge are the established mid-range options.

Sarawak: Caves and Longhouses

Mulu National Park in northeastern Sarawak requires a flight from Miri (50 minutes, around USD 80 to 120). The park contains the Sarawak Chamber, the largest cave chamber in the world by area (600 metres long, 415 metres wide, 80 metres high). The Deer Cave has the world’s largest cave passage. Every night around sunset, 3 to 4 million wrinkle-lipped bats exit Deer Cave in a continuous spiral column that takes 20 to 40 minutes to empty. The timing is reliable and the spectacle is difficult to describe accurately.

The Headhunter’s Trail from Mulu to Long Berar is a 3-day jungle trek requiring a licensed Iban guide. The walk passes traditional longhouses and river crossings. Not for beginners without serious physical preparation.

What to Eat

In Kota Kinabalu, the Filipino Market on the waterfront operates as a seafood restaurant complex in the evening: select your fish, crab, or prawns from the vendors, negotiate a price per kilogram, then eat it cooked to order at adjacent tables. Budget RM 30 to 60 per person. This is the correct KK food experience.

Sarawak Laksa, a spiced coconut broth noodle soup, is available throughout the state at RM 6 to 10 per bowl and is excellent.

Practical Notes

Sabah and Sarawak require a separate Malaysian state entry stamp even for Malaysian citizens; passports are checked. The dry season (March to October) is better for trekking. Wildlife viewing can be productive in wet conditions too, as animals concentrate near water. Consult a travel health clinic about malaria prophylaxis before travelling to remote Kalimantan.