Lake Wakatipu

Lake Wakatipu: 80km of Glacial Water Surrounded by Serrated Peaks

Lake Wakatipu has a documented oscillation, rising and falling 8 to 10 centimetres roughly every five minutes due to atmospheric pressure changes. The Maori explanation is more interesting: the lake is the heartbeat of a sleeping giant named Matau, whose body is curled below the water. This explanation works on the evidence – the lake does rise and fall rhythmically – and says something about the quality of indigenous observation of natural phenomena.

The lake is the third-largest in New Zealand: 80 kilometres long, carved by glaciers to a depth of 380 metres below the surrounding plain in some sections. The mountain ranges that enclose it – the Remarkables to the southeast, the Cecil and Walter Peaks to the west, the Richardson Mountains to the north – are the kind of peaks that appear unreasonably dramatic from a lakeshore viewpoint. At sunset, when the summits turn pink and the water darkens, it looks designed rather than geological.

From Queenstown

Most people encounter Wakatipu from Queenstown, which sits at the lake’s southwestern corner. The TSS Earnslaw, a 1912 coal-fired steamship, does two-hour lake cruises from the Queenstown Pier for NZD 65 to 85. The working steam engine, visible in the engine room below decks, is genuinely impressive. The Wilson Bay BBQ option (NZD 119) includes a farm tour and outdoor dinner on the far shore.

The Glenorchy Road

The 46-kilometre drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy on the northern lakeshore is the better way to experience the lake rather than just look at it. Stop at the Twelve Mile Delta campsite about 20 minutes out – a gravel shore with no obstructions between you and the full southern view. The road ends at Glenorchy, the trailhead for the Routeburn and Greenstone-Caples tracks.

Glenorchy’s lagoon was used for several scenes in Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings: the willow trees and braided river delta look exactly like the Misty Mountains approach sequences, which is visually disorienting in an entertaining way. Worth two hours minimum.

Kinloch

On the lake’s northern arm, accessible by gravel road from Glenorchy or by water taxi from Queenstown (NZD 60 to 80 one way), Kinloch is where the lake feels genuinely remote. Kinloch Lodge provides accommodation and meals; the views back toward the Dart River delta from the lodge jetty are among the best on the lake.

Walking and Cycling

The Queenstown Trail system follows sections of the lakeshore by bike. The Sunshine Bay to Fernhill section takes 30 to 40 minutes and avoids the main road. Bike rental from around NZD 50 per day is available centrally.

Where to Eat

The Boatshed on the Queenstown waterfront does good breakfast and lunch with unobstructed lake views. Glenorchy Trading Post, at the end of the road, is a combined petrol station, cafe, and general store. The meat pies are NZD 8 to 10 and there is a reason every cyclist and tramper stops here. Limited hours in winter; check before relying on it.

The best season for photography is autumn (April to May) when beech and willow trees around the lakeshore turn orange and yellow against permanent snow on the peaks. Summer (December to February) brings long evenings and warm enough water for swimming, though Wakatipu never actually gets genuinely warm.