Lake Wanaka

That Wanaka Tree began as a fence post. Tim Scur planted a willow cutting on the stony shoreline of Lake Wanaka sometime in the 1990s, expecting it to do exactly what fence posts do. It grew instead, standing alone in the shallows with the Southern Alps behind it, and eventually became one of the most photographed trees in New Zealand. It was vandalized in 2020, multiple limbs sawn off and left on the shore, and the community’s response to that act was more telling than the act itself: the tree has recovered, locals remain protective of it, and it still gets its photograph taken several hundred times a day by visitors who have either seen it on Instagram or have no idea why they are photographing a small willow standing in a lake. Both motivations lead to the same result, which is some measure of what Wanaka does to people.

Lake Wanaka is 190 km long (just the lake itself is about 45 km) and sits at 278 metres above sea level in the Queenstown-Lakes district of the South Island’s Otago region. It is quieter than Queenstown, which is about 70 km south, and has a genuinely different character: more outdoor-oriented, less nightlife-focused, and with a town center that manages to feel functional rather than entirely touristified.

Roys Peak

Roys Peak is the hike most associated with Wanaka and the one people plan their visit around. The track climbs 1,248 vertical metres from the lakeshore to 1,578 metres at the summit, on an open ridgeline with uninterrupted views of Lake Wanaka, Lake Hawea to the northeast, and the Mount Aspiring / Tititea massif to the southwest. Return distance is about 16 km; most people take 5-6 hours at a reasonable pace.

The track is completely free (no booking or permit required). Two things to know before you go: the carpark fills by 09:00 in summer, so plan to start before 08:00 or arrange to be dropped off. The track is also closed from October 1 through November 10 each year for lambing season on the private farmland it crosses. No exceptions, and no water is available on the track itself, so carry at least 2 litres per person.

The summit viewpoint photograph (looking back down the ridge with the lake spread below) requires queuing during peak season. Arrive at sunrise to avoid the queue entirely, get better light, and have the upper ridge largely to yourself. Weather changes fast at altitude in this part of New Zealand; a clear morning can deteriorate by noon and the ridge is exposed.

Mount Iron is the easier alternative: a 1.5-hour loop track that starts 2 km east of the town center and gives good lake views without the elevation commitment. It’s genuinely worth doing as a warm-up or on a day when the weather makes Roys Peak inadvisable.

Skiing and the winter season

Wanaka’s three ski areas make it a legitimate winter destination. Treble Cone is the most challenging, with the largest vertical drop of any South Island ski field (700 metres) and a pronounced preference for intermediate to advanced skiers. Cardrona is larger and more family-friendly, with groomed runs across a range of difficulty levels. Snow Farm is the country’s only commercial Nordic (cross-country) ski area, which is unusual enough to be worth mentioning if that is your discipline.

Lift passes at both Treble Cone and Cardrona run around NZD$150-200 per adult per day (2025 rates; check current season pricing). The New Zealand ski season runs roughly mid-June through September, sometimes extending to October in good years.

Where to eat

Wanaka’s dining has improved substantially in the past decade. A few places worth singling out:

Bistro Gentil on Gordon Road is the most serious restaurant in town: French-influenced cooking with an emphasis on local ingredients, a proper wine list, and a Trust the Chef set menu that runs 4 courses. Booking ahead is not optional.

Tititea on Helwick Street focuses on locally sourced meat, specifically Lumina lamb, Lake Ohau Wagyu beef, and wild venison. It’s a smaller menu than you might expect but the sourcing is honest and the execution is consistent.

Kika on Ardmore Street does sharing plates, New Zealand produce, and a relaxed format that works well for groups. The lamb shoulder is a reliable choice.

For breakfast, Scroggin Coffee and Eatery has become a locals’ favourite for coffee and food without the lakefront tourist pricing.

Red Star Burger Bar has been a Wanaka institution for over 15 years. House-made sauces, locally sourced ingredients, and no pretension: it delivers reliably on exactly what it promises.

Many places encourage you to take food to the lakefront, which in good weather is a better dining experience than eating indoors.

Where to stay

The Edgewater Resort on Sargood Drive sits on the lakefront and is the most established hotel-standard accommodation in town, with lake-facing rooms, a restaurant, and a pool. It books out during peak summer (December through February) and during ski season.

For apartments and self-contained accommodation, the Archway Motels and Chalets on Hedditch Street offers a range of sizes at mid-range prices, which is practical if you are based in Wanaka for several days.

Wanaka Kiwi Holiday Park on Brownston Street has a mix of campervan sites, cabins, and motel units at budget-friendly rates and is well-maintained.

Accommodation across all categories is significantly cheaper here than in Queenstown for comparable quality. Book at least 2-3 months ahead for January visits and for the July school holidays.

Getting there

Queenstown Airport (ZQN) is the nearest airport with regular services from Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch (and some direct international connections). The drive from Queenstown to Wanaka takes about 1 hour via the Crown Range Road, which is scenic and passes through the ski area access roads but is occasionally closed in winter due to snow and ice. The lakeside route via State Highway 6 through Cromwell is slightly longer (about 75 minutes) but more reliable year-round.

There is no train service to Wanaka. InterCity coaches run from Queenstown and Christchurch.

Practical notes

The Wanaka region falls within NZST (UTC+12) in winter and NZDT (UTC+13) in summer (daylight saving runs from late September to early April). This is worth noting if you are arriving from Australia and not used to managing the switch: New Zealand is further ahead than most people expect.

Tramping trails in the Mount Aspiring National Park, which borders the lake to the west, require more preparation than Roys Peak: hut bookings through DOC (Department of Conservation), appropriate gear, and ideally some experience with New Zealand alpine conditions. The Rob Roy Glacier Track (2.5 hours return from the road end in the Matukituki Valley) is an accessible exception, requiring no huts and giving a close-up view of an active glacier. The road to the track is gravel and requires a suitable vehicle.