Mount Everest
The height of Everest was revised in 2020 – 8,849 metres, not the 8,848 that appeared in every textbook for seventy years
A joint Nepal-China survey published in December 2020 established a new official height for Everest: 8,849.86 metres. The previous figure of 8,848 metres had been in use since 1954. The difference is less than two metres, attributable to GPS precision and a more accurate measurement of the snow cap versus the rock summit. The number matters to some people and not at all to others, which says something about our relationship with this particular mountain.
Everest stands on the border of Nepal and Tibet in the Himalaya. The Nepali name is Sagarmatha – “goddess of the sky.” The Tibetan name is Chomolungma – “goddess mother of mountains.” The British surveying designation honouring George Everest is the one that stuck in English, which is its own piece of colonial history. Everest never surveyed the mountain himself and reportedly disliked having his name applied to it.
Around 300-400 people summit per year during the spring climbing season in May. The death toll on the mountain exceeds 300, and many bodies remain because recovery from the high camps is not possible. The survival rate has improved significantly with better weather forecasting and high-resolution condition reports from the summit zone, but the mountain continues to kill people. Most deaths occur during descents, when exhaustion and reduced supplemental oxygen supply overlap with deteriorating weather windows.
Base Camp Trekking
Most visitors don’t climb. They trek to Everest Base Camp on the south (Nepal) side at 5,364 metres, which is itself one of the more demanding walks available to non-mountaineers. The route starts from Lukla Airport, reached by a 35-minute flight from Kathmandu on small aircraft that land on a runway ending at a cliff face above a valley. The Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla is widely cited as one of the most technically demanding landings in commercial aviation; the approach is steep, short, and final.
The trek to Base Camp takes 12-14 days return at a standard acclimatisation pace. Key stops: Namche Bazaar at 3,440 metres (the main hub, where most trekkers spend an acclimatisation day), Tengboche Monastery at 3,867 metres (the view of Everest and Ama Dablam from the monastery courtyard is the most photographed on the route), and Gorak Shep at 5,140 metres (the last settlement before Base Camp). From Gorak Shep, the Kala Patthar viewpoint at 5,644 metres gives the best clear view of Everest’s summit – from Base Camp itself, the mountain is partially obscured by the Khumbu Icefall.
Independent trekking is permitted and requires a TIMS card and Sagarmatha National Park permit (around $30 USD). Most trekkers use organised companies for logistics, which is sensible given the route’s length and the altitude management required.
Altitude Sickness
Acute mountain sickness is a genuine risk above 3,000 metres and a potentially serious one above 4,000 metres. Symptoms include headache, nausea, and loss of coordination; severe cases – HACE (cerebral oedema) and HAPE (pulmonary oedema) – are life-threatening. The standard protocol: ascend no more than 300-400 metres per day above 3,000 metres, take rest days, never ascend with symptoms. Diamox is commonly used preventively; consult a doctor before departure. The golden rule – “if in doubt, descend” – sounds simple and is frequently not followed, which is how most serious altitude incidents develop.
The Tibet Approach
The north face approach through Tibet gives views of the original 1924 British route attempted by Mallory and Irvine. Access requires a Tibet Tourism Bureau permit and currently mandates organised group travel with a government-approved guide. Political restrictions fluctuate; Tibet has been periodically closed to independent foreign visitors. When access is available, the Rongbuk Monastery at 4,980 metres – the highest monastery in the world – sits at the base of the north face with the mountain looming immediately above it.
When to Go
Spring (April-May) is the primary summit window and the busiest trekking season. Autumn (September-November) has stable weather with fewer trekkers. The views are often better in spring when the air is clearer above the snowpack.