Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area Tanzania
The largest intact volcanic caldera in the world, 20 kilometres across, 600 metres deep, with an estimated 25,000 large animals inside it
Ngorongoro was created approximately 2.5 million years ago when a massive volcano collapsed inward on itself. The caldera that resulted is 20 kilometres in diameter, 600 metres deep, and enclosed enough to function as a near-self-contained ecosystem. The animals inside – lions, elephant, buffalo, wildebeest, zebra, hippo, black rhino, and flamingos at the soda lake – can move in and out over the rim, but most don’t, because the crater floor is productive enough to keep them fed. The density of wildlife here is higher than almost anywhere else in Africa.
This is the honest argument for Ngorongoro: on a morning game drive in the dry season, you will see more major wildlife in four hours than on many full-day drives in larger, more spread-out parks. The enclosed landscape means the animals are findable and the guide can navigate directly to productive areas. Prides of 20 or more lions are not unusual. The crater’s black rhino population, though small, offers one of the more reliable opportunities to see this species in Africa.
The Game Drive
All vehicles must be licensed 4WDs with accredited guides; self-driving is not permitted. Entry fees as of recent years run $295 per vehicle per day for the crater itself, on top of the broader conservation area fees. Combined with accommodation, this is an expensive destination. The cost is worth it for most visitors on the basis of the wildlife density – you are effectively paying for concentration and reliability.
Descend into the crater as early as possible. The morning drive before 9am consistently offers the best sightings: predators are still active, light is better for photography, and vehicle concentrations are lower than midday. By noon, vehicles cluster at the same sightings and the atmosphere is different. The crater rules require you to exit before dark.
The shallow soda Lake Magadi at the floor’s centre attracts flamingos in large numbers when water levels are right. The hippo pool near the Mandusi swamp is reliably productive year-round. Black rhino are most often seen in the early morning near the woodland edge.
Olduvai Gorge
An hour’s drive west on the Serengeti road, Olduvai Gorge is where Louis and Mary Leakey made some of the most significant hominid fossil discoveries of the 20th century, including Homo habilis remains dating to 1.75 million years ago and evidence of tool use at 1.8 million years. The site museum is small but well-presented. The combination of the crater’s biological spectacle and the gorge’s deep human prehistory within an hour of each other is unusual.
The Empakaai and Olmoti craters in the Ngorongoro Highlands north of the main crater are accessible by hiking with an armed ranger escort. Almost no visitors go. If you want to walk rather than drive for a day, this is the option.
Staying
The crater rim lodges are dramatically positioned and priced accordingly. Ngorongoro Crater Lodge (Andbeyond) has the most theatrical architecture at north of $1,000 per person per night. Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge is more restrained. Rhino Lodge and Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge are the budget options on the rim, basic but functional. Karatu, 45 minutes below the rim, offers mid-range alternatives including Plantation Lodge at a fraction of the rim prices.
The dry season (June to October) and the short dry spell (January to February) offer the best game viewing. The rim sits at 2,300 metres; bring serious warm layers for evenings regardless of season.