Paphos

Paphos: Cyprus’s Archaeological Concentration and How to Navigate the Tourist Infrastructure

Paphos is a town of about 35,000 people on the southwest coast of Cyprus, a European Union member state that uses the euro, drives on the left, and has a British military base 20 kilometres to the east. The town was a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its archaeological park before it became European Capital of Culture in 2017 and has been doing tourism in some form since the Romans. The result is a place with genuine historical density that is also sometimes difficult to navigate around the hotels and resort development that dominates the harbour area.

The Archaeological Sites

The Kato Paphos Archaeological Park covers roughly 5 square kilometres near the harbour and contains the Roman villa floors that are the main reason Paphos has UNESCO status. The House of Dionysus, the House of Aion, the House of Theseus, and the Villa of Theseus all contain mosaic floors from the 2nd to 5th centuries CE that are among the finest in the eastern Mediterranean.

The House of Dionysus mosaic depicting the myth of Narcissus is the one most people photograph. The Villa of Theseus mosaic of Theseus fighting the Minotaur is larger and better preserved. Both are covered by protective roofing and raised walkways; the roofing makes photography slightly difficult but protects the mosaics from weathering. Allow 2 hours minimum for the archaeological park; you can spend considerably longer.

The Tombs of the Kings, 2 kilometres north of the harbour along the coast road, are underground chambers carved from rock in the Hellenistic and Roman periods (3rd century BCE to 3rd century CE). The name is misleading: no actual kings were buried here. The tombs are significant for their scale and for the Doric columns carved from the bedrock around the atria. Atrium Tomb 3 is the most impressive. The site is open to the air and photography is unrestricted. Admission is around €2.75.

The Harbour and Its Problems

Paphos harbour is pleasant in the morning, with fishing boats and the medieval fort (built by the Lusignans in the 13th century, rebuilt by the Ottomans after the 1570 conquest) on the jetty. By mid-morning in summer, the harbour restaurant strip is operating at full tourist density and prices reflect proximity to the water rather than food quality.

The Paphos fortified harbour fort (Paphos Castle) is worth the €2.50 admission: the views from the rooftop over the harbour and the archaeological park are the best in the town.

For food, walk away from the harbour. The centre of Ktima (the upper, residential town, about 2 kilometres inland) has a different economic context. The market area around Agora Street and the streets around the town hall in Ktima have conventional Cypriot restaurants serving kleftiko (slow-roasted lamb), souvla, and meze at prices aimed at local residents.

The Akamas Peninsula

The Akamas Peninsula, about 40 kilometres north of Paphos, is the most ecologically important area in Cyprus: undeveloped coastline, sea turtle nesting beaches, and the Avakas Gorge. The gorge walk (about 4 kilometres round trip) is one of the better walks in Cyprus: high limestone walls, a stream running through in winter and spring, and a landscape that has no tourist infrastructure whatsoever.

Lara Beach on the Akamas coast is a sea turtle nesting site managed by the Fisheries and Marine Research Department. Loggerhead (Caretta caretta) and green turtles nest here from May through October. Visitor access at night is restricted and managed; during the day the beach is accessible. The track to Lara requires a 4WD; regular cars do not manage the final section of road. Car hire companies in Paphos offer specific 4WD hire for Akamas excursions.

Commandaria

Commandaria is the oldest named wine in the world still in production: an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée dessert wine made from dried Xynisteri and Mavro grapes in the villages of the Troodos foothills. The wine was documented by Richard the Lionheart after he captured Cyprus in 1191. The current production villages (14 are authorised) are in the hills about 40 kilometres northeast of Paphos. KO (Kolossi) winery outside Limassol and Etko Winery in Limassol both offer tastings; smaller village producers can be visited directly.

When to Go

Cyprus is hottest in July and August (35-38°C in coastal Paphos). May and October are significantly more comfortable for walking the archaeological sites. The beach season effectively runs April through October. Winter (December to February) is mild and green, rarely below 10°C, good for hiking in the Troodos mountains which may have snow.

Getting to Paphos: Paphos International Airport (PFO) handles direct flights from most major UK and European airports. The airport is 15 kilometres from Paphos harbour. Bus 612 connects the airport to the harbour (around €1.50, takes about 25 minutes in moderate traffic).