Petra: The Logistics of a Site That Earns the Cliché

Petra is, genuinely, as good as it looks. The Treasury (Al-Khazneh) carved into rose-coloured sandstone at the end of the Siq gorge is one of those views that rewards all the travel required to get there. It was built by the Nabataeans, a sophisticated Arab trading civilisation, as a royal tomb, probably in the 1st century BCE. It has never been excavated properly. The chambers behind the famous facade are empty.

Petra is also large, physically demanding, and poorly equipped with shade. A serious visit requires at least two days. Most package tourists do it in one and spend most of that day looking at the Treasury and then walking back.

How to Arrive in the Siq

The entrance to Petra is through the Siq: a 1.2 km narrow gorge that begins at the visitor centre and emerges directly in front of the Treasury. The walk takes 20-30 minutes. The Siq itself is extraordinary, with walls 80 metres high and ancient Nabataean water channels still visible carved into the sides. Do not rush through it.

Horses are offered at the entrance for JOD 10-15 to ride to the Siq entrance (a 700-metre walk). They are not needed. Carriages are available for the Siq itself for those who cannot walk the distance; this is legitimate. Guides with horses and donkeys throughout the site will offer animal rides at various prices - negotiation is expected, and saying no clearly and walking on is fully effective.

What to See: Two Days

Day 1: The Siq, Treasury, Colonnaded Street, Royal Tombs

After the Treasury, the gorge opens into the outer Siq. Walk straight ahead to the Colonnaded Street (the main processional way), passing the Nabataean theatre (carved into the cliff, seating 3,000, worth 10 minutes). The Colonnaded Street leads to the Byzantine Church (5th-6th century mosaics, impressive and rarely crowded) and the Qasr al-Bint temple at the site’s centre.

The Royal Tombs are the series of large carved facades on the cliff face on your right as you come through the Siq: the Urn Tomb, Silk Tomb, Corinthian Tomb, and Palace Tomb, cut side by side into the sandstone. Climb the steps to the Urn Tomb’s terrace for a view of the valley.

Day 2: The Monastery (Al-Deir)

Al-Deir is the Monastery: larger than the Treasury (50 metres wide, 45 metres tall), more remote, and reached by 800 carved stone steps from the Colonnaded Street valley. The climb takes 40-60 minutes. Almost no shade. Bring 2 litres of water minimum. The structure is carved from a different red sandstone than the Treasury, giving it slightly warmer colouring. The plateau at the top has a cafe with a view across the Wadi Araba desert into Israel/Palestine. It is one of the better views in Jordan.

Most one-day visitors skip the Monastery because they don’t have time. This is a significant mistake.

Little Petra (Siq al-Barid): 8 km north of the main site, accessible by taxi or tour. A miniature version of the main site, with carved dining rooms (the Nabataeans used this as a caravanserai), painted ceilings in some chambers, and almost no tourists. Free to enter with your main Petra ticket on the same day.

Entry Costs

The Jordan Pass (purchased online before arrival) covers the entry visa and Petra’s multi-day fee. Without it: day 1 costs JOD 50 for foreigners (around $70 USD), day 2 costs JOD 55, day 3 costs JOD 60. The Jordan Pass at around $80 covers multiple days and is the obvious choice for anyone staying more than a day.

Wadi Rum

90 minutes south of Petra by road: the desert valley of red sand and sandstone pillars used as the backdrop for Lawrence of Arabia (1962) and more recently The Martian and Rogue One. Stay overnight in a Bedouin camp for the desert silence and the stars. Jeep tours cover the valley in 3-4 hours; camel tours are slower. Operators in Wadi Rum village are accessible from the highway turnoff.

Eating

The Basin Restaurant near the end of the Colonnaded Street: the only sit-down option inside the site. Buffet lunch around JOD 15 per person. Functional, not exceptional.

Drinking water at the vendors inside the site: 1 JOD per bottle, standard price throughout.

In Wadi Musa (the town adjacent to the site): Sandstone Restaurant does decent Jordanian food (mansaf, maqluba) for honest prices. Beit al-Baraka does better food but is more expensive.

Where to Stay

Stay in Wadi Musa, the village directly outside the site entrance.

Mövenpick Resort Petra (right at the entrance): top-end, expensive (JOD 150-250 per night), the convenience justifies some premium. Early morning entry is much easier from here.

La Maison de Charlotte (Wadi Musa): mid-range boutique hotel, JOD 60-100, good service, reasonable walk to the entrance.

Valentine Inn (Wadi Musa): budget-friendly guesthouse, clean, around JOD 20-35 per night, popular with backpackers.

Practical Notes

Start at 06:30 when the site opens. The first two hours before the tour group buses arrive from Aqaba and Amman are quieter and cooler. The Treasury gets direct sunlight mid-morning; the best photographs are made in the first hour of light or in the late afternoon.

Temperature in summer (June-August) reaches 35-40 Celsius by noon. October through March is the most comfortable period. Petra can get cold at night even in summer.