Ischia: The Island Italians Go To

Capri gets the international travel press. Ischia gets the Neapolitans, who have been coming here specifically for the volcanic thermal springs for roughly two thousand years. The Romans considered the waters at Ischia medicinal; the Greek colony that preceded them was here partly because of the steam vents and hot springs that rise from the volcanic rock beneath the island. The thermal park industry that exists today is a continuation of something very old.

The island is about 46 square kilometres, a 40 to 50 minute hydrofoil from Naples (90 minutes on the slower car ferry), with Monte Epomeo at 788 metres in the centre. Hourly services run from Molo Beverello near Piazza Municipio in Naples; a hydrofoil ticket costs around EUR 20 each way.

The Thermal Pools

Ischia has over 100 thermal springs, with temperatures typically running 28 to 40 degrees, and dozens of hotels and parks have tapped them for pools.

Giardini Poseidon in Forio has been operating since 1958 and is the largest thermal park on the island, with over 20 outdoor pools at various temperatures, steam caves, and a private beach section. Around EUR 35 to 45 for a full day, which gets you sunlounger hire and full access. It is social and animated rather than tranquil – a large communal Italian experience rather than a quiet spa. Bring a book but don’t expect silence.

Negombo in Lacco Ameno, tucked in the bay of San Montano between Monte Vico and the Zaro headland, is the more atmospheric option. The park is planted with tropical species, has a carved-stone Japanese labyrinth pool, and the setting is genuinely beautiful. Slightly more expensive and worth it.

The free option: Baia di Sorgeto near Panza in the south, where natural volcanic vents heat the seawater in rock pools along the coast. You reach Sorgeto by taxi boat from Sant’Angelo or on foot down 200 steps from Panza. The thermal gradient from vent to open sea creates pockets of different temperatures. No facilities, no sunloungers, no charge. The Romans were using this spot; locals and budget visitors still do.

Fumarole Beach at Maronti in the south has naturally heated sand – volcanic heat from below warms the beach sand to temperatures that restaurants use to cook wrapped eggs and potatoes. This is a genuine phenomenon rather than a tourist gimmick.

Sant’Angelo

Sant’Angelo in the south is the most photogenic part of the island: a small promontory village connected to the mainland by a sandy isthmus, no cars allowed. The combination of painted houses, fishing boats, and the stillness of a car-free space makes it feel substantially different from the rest of the island. The Maronti thermal beach and the fumarole area are within walking distance.

Monte Epomeo

The island’s volcanic peak can be hiked from Fontana in about 90 minutes. The summit gives views of the entire island, the Bay of Naples, Vesuvius, Capri, and on clear days the Amalfi coast. At the top, a small 15th-century hermitage chapel is carved into the tufo volcanic rock.

Castello Aragonese

The island fortress off Ischia Porto, connected by a causeway, has been occupied since the ancient Greeks and extensively modified by the Aragonese in the 15th century. The upper terraces give wide views of the bay. Entry around EUR 12; allow two hours.

Eating

Ischia’s cooking is Neapolitan in character. Coniglio all’ischitana – rabbit slow-cooked with olives, tomatoes, herbs, and white wine – is the island’s signature dish. Da Peppina di Renato in Forio has been doing this properly for decades: a small family trattoria with no frills, queues at peak times, and genuine cooking. Around EUR 30 to 40 for a full meal. Book if you can.

The local wine, Biancolella, is a white grape grown on the volcanic slopes that produces wines with a distinct mineral quality from the soil. Order the local white rather than importing Tuscany’s reputation.

When to Go

September and early October are ideal: warm water, fewer Italian tourists once school starts, and most facilities fully operational. July and August are very crowded and hot. April and May work for those who want a quieter island with good weather; many hotels and restaurants close from November through March.