Edinburgh’s Royal Mile: What’s Worth Stopping For

The Royal Mile runs 1.6 km from Edinburgh Castle at the top to the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom. The name is older than you might think - it appears in print as early as 1508. The street has four named sections: Castlehill, Lawnmarket, High Street, and Canongate, in that order going downhill. Architecturally it is one of the most complete examples of a Scottish medieval townscape anywhere, and it is entirely real: people live in those tenements.

It is also saturated with whisky shops, tartan sellers, and Edinburgh Fringe flyerers for three months a year. The two things coexist.

Edinburgh Castle

The Castle is at the top of the Mile and cannot be missed - it is visible from most of the city. It sits on a volcanic plug of basalt 130 metres above Princes Street. Entry: £19.50 adults, £12 concessions (Historic Environment Scotland members free).

The Scottish Crown Jewels (Honours of Scotland) are the oldest set of crown jewels in Britain, on display in the Crown Room. The Stone of Destiny, historically used in Scottish coronations (recently returned from Westminster Abbey for Charles III’s coronation in 2023, then returned again), is here.

St Margaret’s Chapel is the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh, probably built by David I around 1130. Very small, very plain, very old.

Mons Meg: a 15th-century siege bombard with a barrel diameter of 50 cm. It was used at the siege of Threave Castle in 1455 and has been at Edinburgh Castle since the 16th century. Worth 10 minutes.

The queues at the Castle are worst at 10:00-14:00 on summer weekdays. Go at 09:30 at opening.

What’s on the Mile That Isn’t Tourist Traps

St Giles’ Cathedral (High Street): the mother church of Scottish Presbyterianism, founded before 1124 on this site. The Thistle Chapel (1911) at the east end is a small, extraordinarily elaborate piece of Gothic revival woodcarving - the sovereign’s stall for the Order of the Thistle is among the finest modern woodcarving in Britain. Free entry; small donation expected.

The Closes: the narrow alleys running off both sides of the Royal Mile are called closes (rhymes with “gross”). Mary King’s Close, now a paid underground tour (£17), is the most famous - a series of sealed-up buildings from the 17th century. The tour is commercial but genuinely interesting. For free, the closes themselves are worth ducking into: Bakehouse Close, Dunbar’s Close (with a quiet garden), and Tweeddale Court all have their own character.

The Museum of Edinburgh (142 Canongate, free): in the Huntly House building, a good collection covering Edinburgh’s history including the National Covenant (1638) and the collar of Greyfriars Bobby.

John Knox House (43-45 High Street, £6): whether Knox lived here or not is disputed, but the building itself (c.1490) is one of the oldest surviving houses in Edinburgh with a good timber-fronted facade.

Holyroodhouse (bottom of the Mile): the official Scottish residence of the monarch, used one week per year in summer. Open to visitors when the Royal Family is not in residence: £19.50 adults. The gallery of Stuart portraits and the private apartments are the best sections. Holyrood Abbey, the ruined medieval abbey in the grounds, is included.

Eating

The Piemaker (38 South Bridge, one block from the Mile): hand-made Scots pies, haggis rolls, and scotch pies. Affordable, honest, very good. Queue at lunchtime.

Wedgwood Restaurant (267 Canongate): the best food on or near the Royal Mile, using Scottish ingredients (game, coastal seafood, beef). More expensive than casual options but genuinely excellent. Dinner from £40-60 per person.

Sandy Bell’s (25 Forrest Road, Grassmarket, 5 minutes from the Mile): traditional folk music pub, no food beyond crisps, very good beer, free music from Thursday to Sunday. The pub most music visitors to Edinburgh are looking for.

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (28 Queen Street, New Town): the city’s best whisky tasting venue, membership required but day passes available. Worth a 2-hour session if whisky is your reason for being in Edinburgh.

The Edinburgh Fringe

The Fringe runs for three weeks in August and is the largest performing arts festival in the world. It fills every available venue in the city, from proper theatres to pub back rooms. The free Fringe shows (ticketed but no charge) are often better value per hour of entertainment than paid shows. The Royal Mile in Fringe season is genuinely overwhelming with performers flyering and impromptu shows. It is also the most alive the city gets.

If you are visiting in August, book accommodation and any specific shows 3-4 months ahead. Prices triple.

Staying

The Witchery by the Castle (352 Castlehill): theatre boutique hotel with Gothic decor, right at the Castle. Around £350-500 per night. The restaurant is one of Edinburgh’s better dinner options.

Hotel Indigo Royal Mile (51-53 Blackfriars Street): design hotel in a converted Victorian building, around £120-200 per night.

Smart City Hostel (50 Blackfriars Street, same street as Indigo): one of Edinburgh’s best-run hostels, dorms from £25, central location.

Edinburgh’s Old Town fills completely in August. Book early. Outside August, prices are significantly lower and availability is good.