Svalbard

Svalbard, Norway

Svalbard is a Norwegian archipelago in the High Arctic, roughly halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole. About 60% of the land area is glacier. Polar bears outnumber humans – around 3,000 bears to 2,600 residents. You are not allowed to leave Longyearbyen, the main settlement, without a rifle or the company of an armed guide. This is not a rule for effect; it is the standard precaution against a genuine apex predator that will investigate humans.

The 1920 Svalbard Treaty makes it one of the few places in the world where citizens of any signatory nation can live and work without a visa. Russia has maintained a coal mining settlement at Barentsburg throughout the Cold War and beyond.

Longyearbyen

Longyearbyen is the only town most visitors see: around 2,200 people, a handful of hotels, a few restaurants, and a surprising density of expedition outfitters. The Svalbard Museum covers the archipelago’s geology, wildlife, human history, and the politics of the Treaty. The colourful wooden houses on the hillsides above town are photogenic in any season. The old coal mining infrastructure scattered through town is a reminder that this was an industrial settlement before it was a tourist one.

Arctic Experiences

Everything outdoors in Svalbard requires a guide or armed company. You cannot independently hike or snowmobile into the wilderness without polar bear protection, and most visitors don’t have that capability. The guided operations here are generally excellent.

Dog sledding in winter (February through April) is the most famous activity, from 2-hour introductions to multi-day expeditions sleeping in mountain huts. Snowmobile safaris cover more ground faster. Northern Lights tours run from October through February when there’s sufficient darkness; Svalbard is one of the better locations in Norway because the skies are darker and clearer than at lower latitudes.

In summer (June through August), boat-based wildlife tours are the primary draw. Polar bears are more reliably seen from sea – they concentrate on sea ice and coastal areas. Walrus haul-outs, beluga whales, blue whales, and massive seabird colonies (little auks in the millions during nesting season) are all seasonal possibilities.

The Global Seed Vault

The Svalbard Global Seed Vault, 1.3km from Longyearbyen, is cut into the permafrost and holds over 1.3 million seed varieties from around the world – a backup of global agricultural diversity against catastrophic crop failures. The entrance protrudes from the hillside with a distinctive illuminated art installation by Norwegian artist Dyveke Sanne. The interior is not open to visitors, but the exterior is worth a stop.

Where to Stay and Eat

Basecamp Spitsbergen, Funken Lodge, and Radisson Blu Polar Hotel are the main accommodation options. Prices are high relative to mainland Norway, which is itself expensive. Book well in advance for February through April (peak winter activities season) and July through August.

Huset is the fine dining option, with an Arctic-focused menu (reindeer, Arctic char, the occasional whale if you’re comfortable with that) and a wine cellar in the old miners’ recreation building. Kroa is the more casual pub/restaurant.

Getting There

Direct flights from Oslo on SAS and Norwegian to Longyearbyen Airport (LYR), about 3 hours. Flights also operate from Tromsø. No visa required.

Winter (November through February) is polar night – no sun at all. March onwards brings the sun back. July and August are expensive and busy. May and September offer a balance of reasonable prices and good conditions.