Temple of the Emerald Buddha

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), Bangkok

The Emerald Buddha is not emerald – it is carved from a single block of jade, approximately 66cm tall, and nobody agrees on exactly when it was made. The most credible scholarly estimates suggest the 14th or 15th century. What is documented is that the statue was discovered in Chiang Rai in 1434, moved several times during periods of political instability, spent 215 years in Laos, and was finally brought to Bangkok by Chakri dynasty founder Rama I in 1784. The Thai king personally changes the figure’s seasonal ceremonial robes three times per year, a tradition maintained by the current monarchy.

Wat Phra Kaew sits inside the Grand Palace compound in the Rattanakosin old city and is the most important Buddhist temple in Thailand. The combined ticket for the temple and Grand Palace costs 500 THB per person, paid at the main gate on Na Phra Lan Road. No discounts. Grounds open 08:30-15:30 daily. Go early – the compound becomes very crowded by 10:00, and the morning light is better for the compound’s gilded architecture.

Dress Code

Shoulders and knees must be covered. This is enforced, not suggested. Sarongs and shoulder coverings are available for loan near the entrance if you arrive underdressed. Shoes are removed before entering temple buildings.

The Compound

Allow two hours minimum. The surrounding murals in the temple’s outer gallery depict the entire Ramakien (the Thai version of the Ramayana) in 178 panels stretching around the perimeter wall. Many visitors rush past them to reach the main temple building; the murals are a significant artistic achievement and worth 20 minutes of slow walking.

Inside the main bot, the Emerald Buddha sits at the far end under conditions that limit how close visitors can get. The figure is modest in physical scale; the importance it carries is not. The gilded decoration and the surrounding architecture are what most people remember most vividly.

The scale model of Angkor Wat on the grounds – built during the period when Cambodia was under Siamese control in the 19th century – is easy to miss and worth finding.

Nearby

Wat Pho, immediately south and accessible through a connecting gate or via Sanamchai Road (200 THB separately), holds the reclining Buddha: 46 metres long, covered in gold leaf, the soles of the feet inlaid with mother-of-pearl depicting the 108 signs of the Buddha. It is in most respects the better temple for architectural interest, and the traditional massage school on site is legitimately good and reasonably priced.

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), across the Chao Phraya River, is a 10-minute river ferry (4 THB). The central prang tower is covered in fragments of Chinese porcelain that create a different surface texture from any other temple in Bangkok. See it at sunrise or late afternoon when the light plays off the ceramic.

Jay Fai

The Michelin-starred street stall on Maha Chai Road, about a 10-minute walk from the Grand Palace, is worth planning around. Jay Fai herself still cooks at age 78, wearing ski goggles against the wok smoke. The crab omelette costs around 1,000 THB and is exceptional. Walk-up waits run 2-3 hours; booking by phone in advance is the rational approach.

Where to Stay

Sala Rattanakosin on Maha Chai Road has rooftop views of Wat Arun across the river and is the most convenient upscale option for the historic sites. Banglamphu, a 15-minute walk north on the Khao San Road side, has accommodation from budget guesthouses to solid mid-range hotels, and is where you will find the best value for the neighbourhood.