Teotihuacan

Teotihuacan: Ancient City Nobody Can Fully Explain

Teotihuacan was one of the largest cities on earth from around 100 BC to 550 AD, with a population of 100,000-200,000 people. It predates the Aztecs, who arrived centuries after the city had already been abandoned. The Aztecs named it Teotihuacan, meaning “place where the gods were created,” but had no idea who built it. We still don’t know with certainty; the builders left no written records that have been decoded. The city covers 30 square kilometres, 40km northeast of Mexico City, and is the most visited archaeological site in Mexico.

Getting There

From Mexico City’s Terminal Norte (accessible by Metro Line 5 to Terminal del Norte), Autobuses Mexico-Teotihuacan runs directly to the site from around 6am. Journey time is 60-90 minutes; fare around 60 MXN. The bus drops you at Gate 1, the north entrance. Return buses run until 6pm. The first bus is genuinely worth catching; the site gets crowded from 10am and by noon is unpleasantly packed.

The Site

Entry is 524 MXN (about $26 USD). Open 9am-5pm daily.

The Calzada de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead) runs 2km north-south through the centre. The Pyramid of the Moon closes the northern end; the Pyramid of the Sun, the third-largest pyramid in the world at 65 metres, stands to the east of the avenue roughly halfway along.

Climbing the Pyramid of the Sun is permitted and takes about 20 minutes. The 248 steps are steep and uneven. The view from the summit over the whole site with the valley beyond and mountains in the distance is genuinely excellent. Carry water; there is no shade. The Pyramid of the Moon is smaller but the view from its platform facing south down the full length of the Avenue of the Dead is, many people find, the better photograph.

The Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Feathered Serpent Temple) at the south end of the avenue has carved stone serpent heads protruding from its facade at close range. The detail of the stonework is extraordinary; you can examine it at eye level. This temple is often overlooked by visitors who tire before reaching the southern precinct.

The Palacio de Tepantitla, reached by a short walk outside the main precinct, has better-preserved murals than anything inside the main site. Worth the extra 20 minutes.

Hot Air Balloons

Sunrise balloon flights over Teotihuacan operate most mornings from operators based in the nearby town of San Juan Teotihuacan. The standard flight lasts 60-75 minutes and lands in the fields around the pyramids. Cost is around $150-180 USD per person, including transfer from Mexico City. Book through Globo Magia or Aerovolcan; both have solid records. This is expensive but uniquely spectacular.

Where to Eat

The restaurants at the site entrances are overpriced. La Gruta, a restaurant in a natural cave system near Gate 5 (the east entrance), serves Mexican food in a setting that’s unusual enough to justify the price premium; mains run 200-350 MXN. For cheaper options, the town of Teotihuacan has taco stands and local eateries along the main road where a full lunch costs 80-150 MXN.

Where to Stay

Most visitors come as a day trip from Mexico City. For those wanting to stay: Villa Arqueologica Teotihuacan has rooms adjacent to the site and a pool. Prices around 800-1,500 MXN per night.

The quiet hours before and after the main crowd waves (7-9am and 4-5pm) transform the site; staying locally lets you be there at those times.