The Alps

The Alps

The Mer de Glace glacier above Chamonix, which Romantic-era painters visited as a pilgrimage to nature’s sublime power, has retreated 2.5km since 1820 and lost around 150 metres of thickness. The steps leading down to the ice surface have been extended repeatedly as the glacier descends further, the markers at each step show the ice level in 1990, 2000, 2010, 2020, each one noticeably lower. Whether this changes your experience of standing on an Alpine glacier or is simply background information is your decision. The mountain is still extraordinary.

The Alps span eight countries from France to Austria and Slovenia, covering roughly 1,200km. They contain the highest mountains, most famous ski resorts, and best-known mountain scenery in Europe. Choosing where to go matters more than most planning guides acknowledge.

Switzerland: Zermatt and Jungfrau Region

Zermatt sits at the foot of the Matterhorn and is car-free. The approach by train from Täsch (the last parking village) is part of the experience. The Matterhorn looks exactly like its photographs, which is both satisfying and slightly strange. Summer hiking is excellent, the trails above Zermatt onto the Klein Matterhorn plateau are accessible via cable car and offer high-altitude walking without technical skill required.

The Jungfrau region (Grindelwald, Wengen, Mürren) gives access to Jungfraujoch at 3,454 metres, which is the highest train station in Europe and a reasonable day trip in clear weather. The descent from Grindelwald down the valley is beautiful from the train. Lauterbrunnen valley, with its 72 waterfalls, is genuinely impressive and worth a stop.

Swiss mountain prices are high across the board. A day ski pass at major resorts runs CHF 80-100 (roughly €85-105). The train network is excellent and frequent.

France: Chamonix

Chamonix is at the foot of Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps at 4,808 metres. The valley atmosphere is more serious about climbing than most other Alpine resorts, the town has a long history with alpinism that gives it a different character. The Aiguille du Midi cable car ascends to 3,842 metres and offers views of the surrounding glaciers that are genuinely extraordinary. The Mer de Glace glacier is accessible by rack railway from Chamonix and has shrunk dramatically over the past century, as the markers along the path down to the ice demonstrate.

Skiing at Chamonix is advanced terrain. The Vallée Blanche, an off-piste descent of around 20km from the Aiguille du Midi, is the most famous ski route in the Alps, it requires a guide and some ability.

Austria: St Anton and Hallstatt

St Anton am Arlberg is one of Europe’s best ski areas, particularly for intermediate and advanced skiers. The Arlberg ski pass covers a linked area including Lech and Zürs. Après-ski here is genuinely enthusiastic, the Mooserwirt and Krazy Kanguruh bars on the Rendl and Galzig slopes respectively are famous across the skiing world for their 15:00-18:00 terrace parties.

Hallstatt is a lakeside village of around 700 people that has become extremely popular with Asian tourists following exposure through Korean TV dramas and social media. The village and its mountain backdrop are undeniably photogenic. It can be very crowded, particularly in summer mornings when day-trippers from Salzburg and Vienna arrive. Staying overnight and exploring early or late gives a different experience.

Eating

Alpine cuisine is substantial and largely the same across Swiss, Austrian, and French areas. Fondue (melted cheese with bread) and raclette (melted cheese over potatoes) are the Swiss staples. Käsespätzle (cheese noodles) dominates in Austrian restaurants. In Chamonix and the French Alps, tartiflette (potato, cream, and reblochon cheese baked together) is everywhere. None of this is light eating, which suits the altitude and the physical activity.

Practical Notes

  • Mountain weather changes fast at high altitude. Afternoon thunderstorms in summer are reliable rather than rare. Start hikes early.
  • Switzerland uses Swiss Francs. The EU countries use Euros. Credit cards are accepted widely in resort towns.
  • Ski rental is cheapest booked online before arrival. The same applies to lift passes at major resorts.
  • The Mont Blanc Express train connecting Chamonix with Martigny (Switzerland) is a scenic alternative to road travel across the border.