Luang Prabang: The UNESCO Town on the Mekong

Luang Prabang sits at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers in northern Laos. It was the royal capital of the Kingdom of Lan Xang from the 14th century and the seat of the Lao monarchy until 1975. The French colonial presence from 1893 to 1954 built the grid of streets and the colonial villas that now sit alongside the older wats. The whole peninsula, roughly 1.3 kilometres long and 600 metres wide, is the historic core and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995.

Tourism has grown substantially since the 1990s and the main streets now have the small luxury hotels and Western-oriented restaurants that follow. This has not yet destroyed what makes the place unusual. The temple density is real; the monks are real; the morning alms-giving is real even if it now involves photography. The town is worth several days.

Wat Xieng Thong

The most important temple in Luang Prabang stands at the northern tip of the peninsula where the Nam Khan meets the Mekong. Wat Xieng Thong was built by King Setthathirath in 1560 and served as the main royal temple. The sim (ordination hall) has a distinctive sweeping roof that reaches nearly to the ground and is covered with gold stencil patterns on red lacquer. The exterior back wall has a mosaic “Tree of Life” in coloured glass. The small Red Chapel to the side of the main temple contains a standing gold Buddha of unusual delicacy.

Entry around 20,000 kip (about USD 1). Open daily from 08:00. The temple is used by the monks of the adjacent monastery; outside of tourist hours it is quiet and functioning.

The Tak Bat Alms Ceremony

Every morning before sunrise (around 05:30-06:00), the monks from the 33-odd temples and monasteries of Luang Prabang walk in procession through the streets to receive offerings of sticky rice and food from laypeople. The procession is a genuine religious practice that predates tourism by centuries.

It has also become heavily photographed and somewhat disrupted. The main procession street (Sakkaline Road, near the night market) has vendors selling rice for tourists to give and tour groups with cameras advancing on the monks. This is considered intrusive by the monks and the local community. If you want to observe the tak bat: stand back, do not use flash, do not approach the monks’ line, and consider giving properly prepared offerings (cooked sticky rice in a small basket, kneeling from a low position on the pavement) rather than tourist-vendor rice in a plastic bag.

The less-visited residential streets in the northern peninsula have quieter processions with fewer observers.

Kuang Si Waterfalls

Kuang Si is a tiered waterfall and pool system 30km south of Luang Prabang, operated as a national forest reserve. The upper falls drop 50 metres through jungle. Below, a series of turquoise pools fed by the travertine formations allow swimming. The water is cold and clear.

The main lower pools are busy in the morning when tour groups arrive (typically 09:00-12:00). Go early (gates open around 08:00) or in the afternoon when the group buses have departed. Entry around 20,000 kip. The hiking trail up to the top of the falls and back takes about an hour and is worth doing for the views.

A bear rescue sanctuary (Free the Bears) operates at the park entrance; the Asiatic black bears housed here were rescued from the wildlife trade.

Getting there: tuk-tuks from the town run around 40,000-60,000 kip per person return. Shared minivans organised through guesthouses run around 30,000-50,000 kip. Hire a bicycle for the day if you are comfortable with 30km of road cycling.

Mount Phousy

The 100-metre hill rising from the centre of the peninsula is a 15-minute climb from Sakkaline Road. Several shrines and a wat (Wat Chom Si) with a gold stupa at the summit. The view at sunset is the reason people climb it: the entire Mekong-Nam Khan river system and the town below, mountains to the east. Entry around 20,000 kip. The summit path is crowded at sunset; arriving 30-40 minutes before sunset secures a viewing position.

Royal Palace Museum

The former royal palace (Haw Kham) was built in 1904 for King Sisavang Vong and is now a museum of the Lao monarchy. The throne room, reception halls, and royal apartments are preserved with original furnishings. The collection includes royal regalia, diplomatic gifts (a gift from Eisenhower, a moon rock from Nixon), and court art. Photography is not permitted inside.

The Pha Bang Buddha image, a 90cm gold-and-bronze standing Buddha attributed to 1st century Sri Lanka and considered the palladium of the Lao nation, is housed in a chapel to the right of the main entrance. It is the most sacred Buddhist image in Laos.

Entry around 30,000 kip. Closed Monday.

The Night Market

The night market runs the length of Sisavangvong Road from around 17:00 to 22:00 each evening. Stalls selling textiles, hill tribe crafts, silk, silverware, and tourist items. The quality ranges from genuine artisan work (the embroidered textiles from the Hmong and Khmu communities, some of which are very good) to mass-produced factory items. The food stalls at the eastern end serve cheap Lao food and the bamboo grills cooking skewers are the best quick dinner option in the market area.

Eating

Tamarind (Ban Vat Nong, near the old market): consistently the best Lao food in the town. Set menus introducing Lao flavours: jeow (dipping sauces), mok pa (fish in banana leaf), laap (minced meat salad). Around USD 8-15 for a set. Cooking classes also available. Book in advance.

Café Toui (Kitsalat Road): a small restaurant serving simple Lao dishes at local prices. Popular with both residents and travelling on budgets. Around USD 2-5 for a main. The jaew bong (chilli paste with dried buffalo) and the grilled river fish are the things to order.

Joma Bakery (Chao Fa Ngum Road): a Canadian-operated chain with branches throughout Laos. Good coffee, fresh bread, Western breakfasts. Not Lao food; used by everyone needing a reliable wifi spot and a familiar breakfast. Around USD 4-8.

For evening eating beyond the night market: the riverfront restaurants along the Mekong have sunset views and unambitious menus. The food is fine; you are paying for the view. Around USD 8-15 per person.

Staying

Maison Souvannaphoum (Phothisalath Road): a former royal family villa now a boutique hotel. Colonial architecture, pool, around USD 80-130 per night. More interesting than the purpose-built resort alternatives.

Amantaka (55/3 Kingkitsarath Road): the luxury end; former French colonial building, 24 suites, from around USD 400-600 per night. The pool and the building are the reasons.

Sayo Guest House (Ban Nalouang): a mid-range guesthouse in a wooden house near the temple district. Around USD 15-30 per night. Several similar guesthouses occupy old wooden buildings on the streets between the two rivers.

Getting There

By air: Luang Prabang International Airport receives direct flights from Bangkok (1.5 hours, Lao Airlines and Bangkok Airways), Chiang Mai (1 hour), Hanoi (1 hour), and several Chinese cities. From Bangkok the connection is the most frequent and cheapest entry point.

By slow boat from Chiang Rai: the two-day Mekong slow boat from Huay Xai (Thai border crossing near Chiang Rai) to Luang Prabang is a popular backpacker route. Wooden longtail boats travel downstream through jungle and villages, stopping overnight in Pak Beng. Around USD 40-60 for the boat fare. The experience is genuinely good: slow, scenic, and with an audience of fellow travellers on the same route. Bring food and water for the crossing.

Practical Notes

Currency: Lao Kip is the official currency; USD and Thai Baht are widely accepted in tourist areas. ATMs exist in Luang Prabang but reliability varies; bring enough cash for your stay from Vientiane or Thailand.

Best season: October to March (dry season). April is very hot. May to September is the rainy season; Kuang Si is at its best but roads can flood.

Dress: shorts and sleeveless tops are not appropriate in temples. Most temples provide sarongs to borrow at the entrance. A light layer is also useful in air-conditioned restaurants at night.