Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls: Zimbabwe, Zambia, and the Practical Decisions Between Them

Victoria Falls is the largest waterfall in the world by the combined measure of width and height: 1,708 metres wide and up to 108 metres tall. The Zambezi River, which forms the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, drops over the basalt cliff in a curtain that produces a permanent mist cloud visible from 50 kilometres away. The Kololo name for the falls, Mosi-oa-Tunya (“the smoke that thunders”), is accurate in both parts.

The falls are accessible from two sides, which means two countries, two currencies, two visa requirements, and two different sets of accommodation options. Most visitors choose one base and cross the bridge for day activities on the other side.

Zimbabwe Side vs. Zambia Side

Victoria Falls town in Zimbabwe is the longer-established tourist base and has better accommodation infrastructure for most budgets. The Zimbabwe side gives views of the full width of the falls from the rainforest walkway inside the national park; the mist from the falls keeps this strip of forest permanently wet, producing an ecological anomaly of dense tropical vegetation in otherwise dry savanna. The five main viewpoints along the Zimbabwean walkway give different angles on the falling water. The most photographed is the view from the knife-edge bridge over the Second Gorge, looking directly across the falls’ full face.

Livingstone on the Zambian side is a smaller, less tourist-oriented city that many visitors prefer for its lower prices and less-packaged atmosphere. The Zambian side of the falls shows the eastern portion and has better views of the Devil’s Pool (on Livingstone Island, at the lip of the falls) and the main falls from specific angles. The Zambian national park fee is lower than Zimbabwe’s.

Both parks charge entry fees; the combined fee if you cross between them is the standard approach for visitors spending two or more days. The border crossing on the Victoria Falls Bridge takes about 20 minutes in low season and longer in high season.

When to Visit

The falls change entirely with the Zambezi water level. At peak flow (March to May, after the Zambian and Angolan rains), the volume of water is so great that the mist obscures most views and you get very wet very quickly; some viewpoints are inaccessible. The falls are visually most dramatic in terms of volume.

Low water season (September to November) reduces the flow enough that the rock structure of the cliff is visible and the Devil’s Pool on Livingstone Island is accessible; swimmers can lie at the very lip of the falls in a natural rock pool. This is the option most frequently photographed in adventure travel media. The trade-off is that some falls sections are dry or trickling rather than full-face.

The best viewing for photography is July and August: enough water for a full-face display, low enough for the rock structure to be visible, mist manageable enough to allow extended viewing.

Activities

White-water rafting on the Zambezi below the falls is one of the most technically challenging commercial rafting experiences in the world. The stretch from the base of the falls through the gorges runs Grade 5 rapids (Class 5 of 6, considered extreme). The Batoka Gorge section runs from October to late January when water levels allow it safely; the main season is August to December. Commercial operators run half-day and full-day trips; the portages around the biggest drops involve significant scrambling.

Helicopter flights over the falls (around 15 minutes, typically $150-200 USD) are the standard way to see the falls’ full extent. The aerial view shows all of the falls and both gorges simultaneously; it’s a different experience from the ground entirely.

Bungee jumping from the Victoria Falls Bridge at 111 metres above the Zambezi is a specific activity that people fly to Victoria Falls to do. The price is around $160 USD.

Practical Notes

Zimbabwe uses the US dollar for most tourist transactions. Zambia uses Zambian kwacha, though USD is widely accepted at hotels and activity operators. Get small bills in USD (most prices are in the $5 to $50 range) and kwacha for local purchases.

Multiple visas are required for multiple border crossings; the KAZA Univisa (available to citizens of about 50 countries) covers both Zimbabwe and Zambia for one fee and is the practical option for visitors intending to cross between them.

The walk from Victoria Falls town to the falls’ main gate takes about 20 minutes.