Windsor Castle

Windsor Castle has been continuously occupied since 1070, which means it has been someone’s home for roughly twice as long as the United States has existed

William the Conqueror built the first castle here as part of a ring of defensive fortresses around London. Forty monarchs have lived in it since then – remodelling, expanding, rebuilding after fires, and adding state apartments that now contain one of the finest collections of European royal art in the world. It is not a monument to something that stopped; it is a working royal residence where state events and private royal life continue alongside visitor access, which means sections close without warning when the schedule requires it.

The State Apartments hold the substantive collection. Rubens, Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Holbein – the picture gallery alone would justify a significant museum elsewhere. The Waterloo Chamber, created to commemorate the 1815 victory over Napoleon, was designed to seat 150 and contains portraits of every significant commander and political figure from the Napoleonic Wars. The rooms become slightly numbing after a while because the scale of the decoration is continuous; the art collection is the reason to slow down.

St George’s Chapel

St George’s Chapel, begun in 1475, is one of the most important Gothic buildings in England. The fan vaulting in the choir is among the finest examples of its type in the country. It is the burial place of ten monarchs including Henry VIII and Charles I. Prince Harry and Meghan Markle married here in 2018, which brought the building a wave of attention from people who had not previously thought much about 15th-century Gothic architecture. The chapel occasionally closes for private events; check the castle website before your visit.

The Changing of the Guard takes place in the Lower Ward at 11am on certain days (daily April through July, alternating days otherwise). The ceremony is shorter and significantly less crowded than the equivalent at Buckingham Palace. Arrive 15-20 minutes early for a reasonable position.

Tickets and Getting There

Adult entry runs £28, covering the State Apartments, St George’s Chapel, and the grounds. Time-entry tickets are recommended in peak season; book through the Royal Collection website. Audio guides are included and are well-produced.

From London: Paddington to Windsor and Eton Central takes about 45 minutes with one change at Slough. Waterloo to Windsor and Eton Riverside takes about 55 minutes direct. The train from Waterloo is the easier journey; the castle is a short walk uphill from the station.

The Long Walk and Windsor Great Park

The Long Walk is a 4.8-kilometre avenue of trees running from the castle’s George IV Gate to the equestrian statue of George III at Snow Hill, and is entirely free to access. The view back toward the castle from the far end, particularly at golden hour, is as good as it looks in photographs. Windsor Great Park extends 5,000 acres south of the castle and includes the Savill Garden (separate admission around £12 for adults), which has genuinely excellent spring and autumn planting seasons. The deer park at the centre of the park has free access and fallow deer visible year-round.

Eton and Where to Eat

Cross the bridge over the Thames into Eton – a ten-minute walk from Windsor’s high street. Eton College, founded by Henry VI in 1440, has educated 20 British prime ministers and the high street has better eating options than Windsor town itself. The Two Brewers pub on Park Street near the castle is reliable for a pint and straightforward food. For something more substantial, the restaurants on Eton’s high street are quieter and generally better quality than the tourist-facing options directly around the castle.

The Sir Christopher Wren Hotel on the Thames in Windsor, a building dating from 1676, is the best accommodation option in the town at around £150 per night. No need to book the train back in advance – trains run every 30 minutes from both Windsor stations.