Yakushima

Yakushima: Japan’s Oldest Forest and What It Takes to See It Properly

The Jomon Sugi cedar is somewhere between 2,170 and 7,200 years old, and the wide uncertainty range is not carelessness – the inner rings have been dead too long to date accurately. What you can say with confidence is that this tree was already ancient when Rome was founded and was old enough to qualify as venerable by the time Miyazaki drew the forest scenes in Princess Mononoke. The island of Yakushima, which inspired those scenes, is about 60 kilometres in diameter and sits off the southern tip of Kyushu. Its mountains intercept so much rainfall (peaks receive over 10 metres per year) that the interior remains permanently wet, draped in moss so thick you can press a hand into it.

The island became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. Trail access was restricted following damage from several recent typhoons, but as of early 2025 the Jomon Sugi route has fully reopened. Visitors must pay a ¥1,000 forest cooperation fee at the trailhead (¥2,000 if using a mountain hut overnight).

The Two Big Hikes

The Jomon Sugi trail is the reason most people come to Yakushima. The round trip covers about 22 kilometres and takes 9 to 11 hours for most people. The first 50 minutes follow a flat, decommissioned logging railway track before the forest trail proper begins; total elevation gain is around 1,400 metres. An observation deck 15 metres from the tree’s base is as close as you can get – access to the base itself was restricted after UNESCO designation to protect the root system. The tree is 25.3 metres tall with a circumference of 16.4 metres. Start no later than 5am. The Arakawa Tozan Bus runs from Yakusugi Shizenkan parking lot to the Arakawa trailhead from 1 March through 30 November; private cars are not permitted on the access road during that period.

The Shiratani Unsuikyo ravine trail is shorter and more atmospheric at close range. The main route to Taikoiwa viewpoint is about 6 kilometres return and takes 3 to 4 hours. The forest here – thick green moss on every surface, twisted cedar roots, streams running through boulders – is the one people photograph when they photograph Yakushima. The two areas look similar in photographs but feel different in person. Shiratani is intimate and accessible; the Jomon Sugi trail is an endurance event with a specific destination at the end.

Rain

“It rains 35 days a month” is the local joke, and the forest requires every drop. Waterproof trousers are not optional – a jacket alone will leave you wet from the knees down within an hour on a rainy trail. Pack for rain regardless of the forecast. The wettest months run May through September. March, April, October, and November offer slightly lower rainfall with mild temperatures; avoid Golden Week (late April to early May) and summer school holidays when buses fill before dawn.

Rental shops in Miyanoura carry high-quality Gore-Tex gear that is properly maintained; renting there if your own waterproofing is questionable is sensible.

Getting There and Around

Fly from Kagoshima on Japan Air Commuter (35 minutes) or take the high-speed Toppy ferry (about 2 hours) or the slower cargo-passenger ferry (4 hours). The slow ferry is significantly cheaper and the extra time doesn’t bother most hikers. The island has no train. Buses serve the main trailheads but the schedule is limited and early starts may require the first bus before full light. Renting a car is the practical option for flexibility; the island perimeter drives in about 3 hours without stops.

Where to Stay

Miyanoura, on the north coast near the ferry terminal, has the most accommodation options. Anbo, on the east coast, is quieter and closer to the Jomon Sugi trailhead. Most minshuku (guesthouses) include dinner and breakfast; meals typically feature fresh mountain trout, Yakushima soba, and tobi-uo (flying fish), dried and used as soup stock throughout the island.

Sankara Hotel and Spa above Onoaida on the south side is the luxury option. The outdoor bath at dusk, with forest sound and no other light source, is one of those experiences that reads as overwrought in description and is actually quite straightforward in person.

Wildlife

Yakushima macaques and Yakushima deer both live here at high density and are entirely unbothered by hikers. You will see both on the main trails and possibly in the car park. Don’t feed either. Sea turtles nest on Nagata Inaka-hama beach from May through July; the local council runs a strict management programme with no torches, no photography, and controlled visitor numbers at night. Book through the village tourism office well in advance.

The Miyanoura convenience store sells a hiking lunch set for under 800 yen. Buy it the day before your Jomon Sugi hike; it opens at 7am which is two hours too late for a proper start.