Machu Picchu, the Plaza de Armas, Sacsayhuaman: if you have already ticked those off, or you are planning a second trip specifically to go past them, this guide is for the layer underneath. Cuzco rewards people who slow down after the first circuit, the produce stalls locals actually shop at inside San Pedro Market, the picanterias serving cuy on a weekend, the Sacred Valley stops that never make the postcard rack.