Kyiv is not a place you can casually go this year. Russia’s full-scale invasion, under way since 24 February 2022, is still ongoing, and the UK’s Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office advises against all travel to Kyiv, a line shared by the US State Department’s own highest-tier “Do Not Travel” guidance. Martial law and a nightly curfew are both in force, air-raid alerts sound regularly, and missile and drone strikes have hit the city repeatedly since 2022.