Humberstone and Santa Laura Saltpeter Works

The Abandoned Wonders of Chile: A Comprehensive Guide to Humberstone and Santa Laura Saltpeter Works

Located in the Atacama Desert, in northern Chile, lie two fascinating abandoned saltpeter works: Humberstone and Santa Laura. These former industrial sites are a testament to the country’s rich mining history and offer a unique glimpse into the lives of the people who once lived and worked there. As a tourist, you’ll be drawn into the eerie atmosphere of these ghost towns, with their crumbling buildings, rusting machinery, and remnants of a bygone era.

Getting There

To visit Humberstone and Santa Laura Saltpeter Works, you’ll need to plan ahead and prepare for a journey to one of Chile’s most remote regions. Here are the steps to get you started:

By Air

  • Fly into Iquique (IQQ) or Antofagasta (ANF) airports, which are serviced by LATAM and Sky Airline.
  • From either airport, rent a car or book a private transfer to reach the saltpeter works.

By Bus

  • Take an overnight bus from Santiago or other major cities in Chile to Iquique or Antofagasta.
  • From the bus station, take a taxi or colectivo (shared van) to the saltpeter works.

Humberstone Saltpeter Works

Established in 1862, Humberstone was one of the largest and most important saltpeter works in Chile during its operational years. At its peak, the town housed over 3,000 people, with a school, hospital, church, and even a cinema.

History

Humberstone’s history dates back to the early 19th century when British investors discovered rich deposits of sodium nitrate (Chile saltpeter) in the area. The works were built by the Peruvian Saltpeter Company, and later sold to the Anglo-Chilean Nitrate Company. During World War I, Humberstone played a crucial role in supplying nitrates for explosives production.

What to See

  • The Town: Wander through the abandoned streets of Humberstone, taking in the remnants of daily life: houses, shops, and administrative buildings.
  • The Factory: Explore the massive factory complex, with its rusting machinery, conveyor belts, and towering chimneys.
  • The Railway Station: Admire the old train station, which once connected Humberstone to other saltpeter works and coastal towns.
  • The Cemetery: Pay respects at the cemetery, where many workers who lost their lives in accidents or due to harsh working conditions are buried.

Santa Laura Saltpeter Works

Located just 5 kilometers from Humberstone, Santa Laura was established in 1872 and operated until 1960. This smaller saltpeter works is often overlooked by tourists, but it offers a more intimate and peaceful experience.

History

Santa Laura was built during the height of Chile’s saltpeter boom, with investments from British and American companies. The works were known for their innovative production methods and high-quality nitrates.

What to See

  • The Factory: Explore the compact factory complex, which includes a stunning wooden administrative building.
  • The Town: Wander through the quieter streets of Santa Laura, taking in the remnants of daily life: houses, shops, and a school.
  • The Railway Station: Admire the old train station, which once connected Santa Laura to Humberstone and other coastal towns.

Tips and Essentials

Safety First

  • Wear comfortable shoes, sun protection, and layers for changing desert weather conditions.
  • Be mindful of unstable structures and avoid entering buildings that appear unsafe.

Accommodation and Food

  • Iquique: Stay in Iquique, which offers a range of accommodations, from budget-friendly hostels to luxury hotels. Try traditional Chilean cuisine, such as pastel de choclo (corn pie) or chupe de mariscos (seafood stew).
  • Pica: For a more rustic experience, stay in the nearby town of Pica, which has basic accommodations and restaurants serving local specialties.

Transportation

  • Rent a car with 4WD capabilities to navigate the rough desert roads.
  • Book a guided tour that includes transportation from Iquique or Antofagasta.

Insider’s Secrets

Photography

  • Visit during the golden hour (dawn or dusk) for breathtaking shots of the abandoned towns and factories.
  • Bring a tripod and camera with good low-light performance to capture the eerie atmosphere.

Wildlife Spotting

  • Keep an eye out for Andean condors, pumas, and viscachas (Andean rabbits) that inhabit the surrounding desert landscape.

Conservation Efforts

In 2005, both Humberstone and Santa Laura Saltpeter Works were declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites, recognizing their importance in Chile’s industrial history. Conservation efforts are underway to protect these sites from further deterioration and looting.

Responsible Tourism

As a tourist, you can contribute to the preservation of these unique sites by:

  • Respecting the buildings, machinery, and artifacts.
  • Not removing any objects or souvenirs from the sites.
  • Supporting local guides and tour operators who prioritize responsible tourism practices.

Conclusion

Humberstone and Santa Laura Saltpeter Works are a testament to Chile’s rich industrial past and offer an unforgettable experience for intrepid travelers. With this comprehensive guide, you’ll be well-prepared to venture into the Atacama Desert and uncover the secrets of these abandoned wonders.

Remember to respect the sites, support local conservation efforts, and take only memories (and plenty of photos!) back with you. ¡Disfruta tu viaje!