Romantic Belgrade on Three Budgets
Belgrade is generous to couples with little money to spend. The best view is free, the best dinner is not expensive, and anything beyond that is a bonus. Here is how an evening for two grows as the budget does.
Free: sunset and a quay walk
Climb Kalemegdan fortress to the Pobednik, Ivan Meštrović’s bronze Victor with a falcon in one hand and a sword in the other, and find a seat on the old wall. The park is open day and night with no charge, and the sun sets over the point where the Sava joins the Danube. Bring a jacket, since the wind picks up after dark.
Afterwards, walk the cobbled lanes of Kosančićev Venac, lined with linden trees, or take a free bus or tram to Zemun and stroll its riverside quay. Zemun was a border town of the Austro-Hungarian empire until 1918, and its terracotta roofs glow in evening light. Fortress details are on beogradskatvrdjava.rs .
About 1,500 to 3,000 RSD each: water and a view
A river cruise lasts about 1.5 hours, leaves from below Kalemegdan or from Zemun, and costs roughly 1,500 to 2,000 RSD (€12 to €18) per person. Pick an evening sailing. Compare Belgrade river cruises on GetYourGuide for departure times.
For a different angle, the 360 Deck on the 41st floor of Kula Belgrade is open daily from 10:00 to 22:00, with last entry at 21:00. Prices move with demand and sit near 800 RSD for an adult; see belgrade360deck.com . The Waterfront district around the tower is contested, with critics pointing to the lack of an open tender and the loss of older buildings, so judge for yourselves.
Dinner on the Zemun quay fits this tier. Šaran, established in 1896, and Reka serve Danube perch, carp and catfish and a fish soup called riblja čorba, with local white wine. Book a table by the window.
About 4,500 RSD each and up: kafana and cellar
In Skadarlija, string bands play slow old love songs between courses at Tri Šešira and Dva Jelena. A full meal with rakija runs about 2,900 to 4,700 RSD (€25 to €40) a head, and weekend tables need reserving.
For a long day out, take the Soko train toward Novi Sad and on to Sremski Karlovci, about an hour or more from Belgrade; check srbijavoz.rs for times. Small family cellars there pour Bermet, a spiced dessert wine, and crisp Grašac. Vinarija Kiš and Bajilo are two names to look up, and a stay in nearby Vrdnik adds a thermal spa.
Where to stay
Dorćol and the old town keep the fortress, the cobbles and the kafanas within a walk. Check rates on Booking.com for small hotels around Stari Grad.
A practical note
Protests occur in Belgrade from time to time and can turn tense quickly, so avoid crowds and check local news before going to central squares. Keep some dinars in your pocket for cafes and small kafanas.
More ideas on the sightseeing page and in the 2-day Belgrade itinerary .
Tip: start at the Pobednik about 45 minutes before sunset, then walk down to a dinner table booked for 20:00.