A Gentle Couples Trip to Ghardaïa
Be clear about what this trip is. Ghardaïa has no bars, no wine, no spa resorts and no restaurants staged for couples, and it is not a place for dramatic photo shoots in the ksour, which are working religious communities. What it does offer is a few quiet days of shade, stone, palm gardens and desert sky. If that sounds right, read on.
Choose the right bed
A traditional guesthouse in the palm groves gives the most atmosphere, with courtyards and garden sounds. Quality and prices vary, so message the host first and check recent reviews before you commit. For predictable facilities, a hotel in Ghardaïa town does the job. Non-Muslims are reported unable to sleep inside the walls of Beni Isguen, so look elsewhere in the valley.
Evening at Melika
Climb the ridge at Melika as the day cools. The limestone catches the last light, and the large cemetery of whitewashed graves lies below, so keep voices low and photographs away from the graves. Taxis are needed once it is dark, so arrange the ride back in advance.
Under a desert sky
When the air is clear, the stars above the northern Sahara are bright. Winter nights get very cold, so bring warm clothing. Book any outing beyond town through a local agency and ask about current conditions. Binoculars, telescopes and drones can need official authorisation, so do not pack them without a permit.
A slower morning
Walk the palm gardens with a guide soon after sunrise, then browse the market arcades for dates, spices, copperware or a Mozabite rug. The market is a pleasure to wander together, and bargaining is part of the fun.
What to leave at home
This is not a trip for staged proposals, drone footage or candlelit set pieces. Leave the champagne, the speakers and the tripod behind, and let the place set the mood. Simple pleasures, such as mint tea at your guesthouse, a long unhurried walk and an early night, suit the valley best.
Conduct together
Keep displays of affection private, particularly near mosques and in the old centres. Cover shoulders and knees, and keep a scarf to hand. In Beni Isguen there is no smoking and no photographing of locals.
Season and travel
October to April is comfortable, while summer temperatures often pass 40 to 45 degrees C. Flights from Algiers take about 1 hour 20 minutes with Air Algérie. A visa must be obtained in advance.
Look at places to stay around Ghardaïa and the FCDO page on warnings when you start planning.
Read more: activities for couples or a three-day itinerary .