UNESCO Sights of the M'Zab Valley
Start with the facts that frame the visit. The M’Zab Valley joined the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1982 (reference 188, criteria ii, iii and v). It protects five ksour, the fortified towns of a Mozabite community that follows the Ibadi branch of Islam. The settlements were founded between about 1012 and the middle of the 1300s. OPVM, the valley’s protection office, manages them. Everything below is a place where people live or pray, so visit quietly.
Sights in a sensible order
1. Ghardaïa, the largest ksar. This is the commercial hub. Arcades frame the market square at the foot of the old town. The Great Mosque is the town’s active place of worship, best seen from the street.
2. Melika, the ridge town. It crowns a ridge beside a large cemetery of whitewashed graves. Go at the soft ends of the day and keep your voice low.
3. Bou Noura, the quiet hillside. Fewer visitors come to its terraced lanes, which open onto views across the valley.
4. Beni Isguen, the walled holy town. A guide is needed. From the hilltop minaret a path leads to the Bordj Boulila watchtower, and your guide will say whether you may go up.
5. El Atteuf, the oldest. Dating from about 1012, it lies among the palms and holds the Sidi Brahim mosque.
Sidi Brahim and Ronchamp
Sidi Brahim is a plain mud-brick building and an example of Ibadi restraint. Writers often connect it with Le Corbusier’s chapel at Ronchamp, built from 1950 to 1955, and Le Corbusier visited the M’Zab in 1931. Mosques in the valley are in use, so view the exterior unless your guide confirms that visitors may step inside.
Visitor etiquette in brief
Smoking is not allowed inside Beni Isguen and residents must not be photographed. Dress modestly. Reports say some sections of Beni Isguen are closed to non-Muslims.
Light and timing
The limestone lanes look best in the low light of early morning and late afternoon, and the heat is easier to manage then too. Spread the five ksour over two or three mornings instead of rushing them in one day, and keep the afternoons for the market and for rest.
Practical points
The comfortable months are October to April. Fly from Algiers with Air Algérie in about 1 hour 20 minutes, or travel the 600 km by road. Obtain a visa in advance. Carry photo ID for checkpoints, and leave drones and binoculars at home unless authorised.
Use sightseeing tours from Ghardaïa to compare guides. For background, the Wikipedia article on the M’zab and opvm.dz are useful. The FCDO warnings page covers current safety advice.
Read more: walking tours and attraction tours .