Gjirokaster for Couples

Gjirokaster suits couples who like quiet over spectacle. There is no resort strip and no long list of couples’ packages, only a small stone town where the romance lies in the setting. This page lays out one slow day for two, then the choices around it. Prices are in Albanian lek (ALL), and most places take cash only.

A day for two

Morning: a slow walk through the bazaar. Start along Qafa e Pazarit, where the lanes are free to walk. The cobbles are steep, polished limestone and slippery after rain, so choose shoes with grip.

Late morning: cook together. Two classes are advertised in town. Kalemi Travel and Tours offers “Cook Like a Local”, a 2-hour session in the Old Bazaar that covers qifqi and a lamb pasta. Cook with Marjeta offers classes at 12:00 or 18:00 every day. Qifqi are rice, herb and egg balls fried in a cast-iron mould, and they are the dish the town is known for.

Afternoon: ride out. Caravan Horse Riding Albania has stables above Asim Zeneli, about 15 minutes by car from the old town. Its listing for a 2.5-hour lakeside ride is about EUR 50 per person. Some rides have a weight limit of about 90 kg, so say who is riding when you ask.

Evening: watch the castle at sunset. Sunset views of the castle cost nothing and come from the lanes and open spaces of the old town. Afterwards, walk to Çerçiz Topulli Square and find somewhere for dinner.

Where to sleep

Restored stone houses take guests in the old town, and Hotel Kalemi is a name to search for. Look at photos of the room and the approach, because the lanes are steep. Ask your host for the best route up from the roadside bus stop.

If you have a second day

Antigonea, 14 km east, is a quiet ancient city with an Early Christian church. Its mosaic floor has a central panel showing a man with an animal head. The ticket is 200 ALL, and the gates stay open until about 16:00 each day. The Blue Eye spring, about 35 km away, makes a good picture stop. The walk from the car park is about 2 km, or ride the small train. The water is 10 to 13 degrees C and swimming is forbidden.

What the town does not offer

Gjirokaster is not a beach or spa break. Hot springs exist at Bënjë near Përmet, but their condition changes, so ask locally before planning around them. A romantic stay here is about stone, evening light and food.

Reading the advice

The UK and US travel advice does not name Gjirokaster. Road deaths in Albania are among the highest in Europe, so take a taxi for the hill roads if you plan to share a bottle of wine. See the UK page .

Look through hotels and guesthouses on Booking.com .

Read more: multi-day trips , things to do and the 3 day Albania itinerary .