Buckingham Palace

Buckingham Palace: How a House Became a Symbol

Buckingham Palace was not built to be the official royal residence. It started as a townhouse owned by the Duke of Buckingham, was purchased by George III in 1761 as a private residence for Queen Charlotte, and became the official residence of the monarch only when Queen Victoria moved in at her accession in 1837. Victoria hated it at first – she found it too large, too public, and impossible to heat adequately. The transition from private house to national symbol took decades and involved multiple costly renovations, the most visible being the refacing of the east front in 1913, which is the face you see from The Mall.

The palace has 775 rooms, 188 staff bedrooms, and a garden of 40 acres. The Royal Standard flies when the monarch is in residence; the Union Jack flies when they are not.

Changing the Guard

The Changing the Guard ceremony is the most anticipated public event at the palace. It takes place in the palace forecourt, usually starting at 11am, running about 45 minutes. The ceremony happens daily during summer and on alternate days in winter; check the official palace calendar before planning your visit. Spectators line the railings on Buckingham Gate Road and The Mall. The Iron railings are the barrier; the gates are not opened to spectators. Arrive at least 30 minutes early for a reasonable position.

The Guards regiments that perform the ceremony rotate through the five Household Division regiments. The bearskin hats weigh about 1.5kg; the scarlet tunics are the full-dress uniform, not worn on operational duties.

The State Rooms

The State Rooms open to the public during August and September annually, when the royal family is at Balmoral. Tickets cost around £32 for adults. The 19 State Rooms include the Throne Room, the White Drawing Room, and the Ballroom, which is the largest room in the palace and is used for state banquets. The Royal Collection works on display include paintings by Vermeer, Van Dyck, and Rembrandt. Book at the Royal Collection Trust website; tickets sell out weeks ahead in peak summer.

The Queen’s Gallery

Open year-round alongside the palace, the Queen’s Gallery holds rotating exhibitions from the Royal Collection (approximately 1 million objects, one of the largest private art collections in the world). Adult admission is around £17. Recent exhibitions have focused on specific monarchs’ collecting interests. This is often the better visit than the State Rooms for anyone primarily interested in the art.

Where to Eat and Stay

The Rubens at the Palace hotel on Buckingham Palace Road is the most geographically convenient high-end option. The hotel’s Palace Lounge does afternoon tea at around £55 per person and has direct views of the palace. For less formal meals: the cafes in St James’s Park (immediately east) are adequate for a break during a walking itinerary. Westminster and Victoria have plentiful hotel options at all price points; both stations are 10-15 minutes’ walk.