Delhi

Delhi: Eight Cities in One, and How to Stop Treating It Like a Transit Hub

Delhi has been continuously settled for over 3,000 years and has been the capital of at least eight successive empires and states. Each left a physical layer: Mughal tombs, British colonial avenues, pre-Mughal sultanate fortresses, and a contemporary megacity of 30 million people. The standard tourist itinerary of Red Fort, Qutub Minar, and India Gate in a single day treats Delhi like a stopover before Agra. The city rewards a slower and more specific approach.

Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad)

The walled city built by Shah Jahan in the 17th century is the most intense part of Delhi and the most misunderstood. Chandni Chowk, the main street, is chaotic and worth it. The side lanes branching off it each specialise in something: Kinari Bazaar sells wedding supplies, Dariba Kalan is the silver jewellery street, Chatta Churiwala sells bangles, Gadodia Spice Market sells wholesale spices in sacks. Navigating requires accepting that the crowd, traffic, and noise are not obstacles to the experience; they are the experience.

Karim’s, off the lane beside the Jama Masjid (India’s largest mosque), has been serving Mughlai food since 1913 under the same family management. Mutton seekh kebab and dal bukhara cost ₹350-500 per person for a full meal, which is extraordinarily good value for the quality. The Jama Masjid itself is free to enter (small camera fee, dress modestly).

Humayun’s Tomb

Humayun’s Tomb in Nizamuddin predates the Taj Mahal by 60 years and was the direct inspiration for it; the same double-dome design, the same charbagh garden layout, the same red sandstone and white marble combination. Entry is ₹600 for foreigners. Far fewer visitors than Agra; you can walk the garden paths without pushing through crowds. Budget 90 minutes.

Qutub Minar

The 73-metre minaret is the oldest Islamic structure of significance in Delhi and part of a mosque complex begun in 1193 after the Ghurid conquest. The iron pillar standing in the courtyard has been there for 1,600 years and has not rusted, which continues to interest metallurgists. Entry is ₹600. Allow an hour.

Lodhi Garden

Free public park in the upscale Lodhi Colony neighbourhood, containing 15th-century tombs of the Sayyid and Lodhi dynasties scattered among old trees and paths. Locals use it for morning walks and yoga; tourists are sparse. The combination of medieval Islamic architecture and functioning urban park is uniquely Delhi.

Where to Eat Beyond Karim’s

Indian Accent in the Manor Hotel, Friends Colony, is Delhi’s most acclaimed restaurant for modern Indian cuisine; tasting menus run ₹4,500-5,500 per person without wine. Pre-booking is essential and the reservation fills weeks ahead.

For everyday eating: the dhaba restaurants around Connaught Place serve dal makhani, butter chicken, and tandoori roti for ₹200-400 per person. Moti Mahal on Darya Ganj claims (with reasonable justification) to have invented butter chicken; the original kitchen has been there since 1947.

Getting Around

The Delhi Metro is excellent, cheap (₹10-60 per journey), and covers most major sites. Buy a tourist card for unlimited rides at ₹200 per day. Avoid taxis without meters; use Ola or Uber apps instead. The October-February window is the most comfortable weather, though December brings visible air pollution.