Kathmandu, Nepal-7-day-itinerary

I want to flag something before diving in: an earlier draft of this itinerary tried pairing Bhaktapur and Nagarkot on the same day, and it just doesn’t work. Bhaktapur alone deserves a full day and Nagarkot’s whole point is sunrise, which means an overnight stay. Seven days is enough to give every major sight its proper due, so here’s the version that actually respects the geography.

Day 1: arrival and Thamel

Sort your visa on arrival before baggage claim, 15 days for $30, 30 days for $50, or a 90-day multi-entry for $125, crisp US cash since card machines are unreliable. Prepaid taxi counter into Thamel runs a fixed NPR 700-800, skip curbside touts quoting NPR 1,500 while grabbing your bags for leverage, and watch for the classic scam where a driver claims your hotel has closed to redirect you elsewhere. Spend the afternoon settling into Thamel’s narrow, motorbike-heavy lanes, and try dal bhat for dinner, NPR 300-600 with refills built in, the “dal bhat power 24 hour” promise you’ll hear constantly.

Day 2: the Monkey Temple and old Kathmandu

Morning at Swayambhunath, NPR 200, climbing roughly 365 steps up the east side. This is the genuine Monkey Temple, worth stating clearly since Pashupatinath gets mislabeled with that name constantly online. Afternoon at Kathmandu Durbar Square, about NPR 1,000, mostly rebuilt since the 2015 quake with Kasthamandap reopened since 2023-24, some scaffolding still visible. Grab street food at Asan market between stops, a genuinely lively slice of old Kathmandu.

Day 3: Boudhanath and Pashupatinath

Morning at Boudhanath Stupa, NPR 400, walking the kora clockwise through the surrounding Tibetan Buddhist quarter. Afternoon at Pashupatinath, NPR 1,000, the Hindu cremation site on the Bagmati. Non-Hindus can’t enter the inner pagoda but the full complex and cremation ghats are visible from across the river, don’t treat it as fully off-limits, just stay respectful around grieving families and settle any sadhu donation before he touches you, not after.

Day 4: Bhaktapur, its own day

Give Bhaktapur the whole day it deserves. It’s a separate medieval town about 45-90 minutes out, entry runs NPR 1,800-2,000 covering the whole entry-controlled town. The Nyatapola temple survived the earthquake standing, and the pottery square rewards slow wandering rather than a rushed photo stop. Wear comfortable shoes for the cobblestones.

Day 5: Patan

Cross to Patan Durbar Square in the separate city of Lalitpur and spend real time here, it’s comparably priced to Kathmandu Durbar Square but better preserved and far less crowded, my clear pick between the two every time. Eat here too, Newa Lahana or Honacha for genuine Newari thali, chhoila, and bara at NPR 500-1,200, a real step up from Thamel’s tourist menus. The Mahaboudha temple’s intricate terracotta carvings are worth the short detour while you’re in the neighborhood.

Day 6: Nagarkot overnight

Drive up to Nagarkot in the afternoon, 1.5-2 hours out at 2,175 meters, and stay overnight so sunrise the next morning actually delivers. Clear October-November or March-April mornings show genuine Himalaya views, Everest included, which is exactly why this needs to be an overnight rather than squeezed into another day’s schedule.

Day 7: back to Kathmandu and departure

Come down from Nagarkot in the morning, grab last-minute souvenirs in Thamel, and head to Tribhuvan International. If you’ve got a spare hour, the Chandragiri Hills cable car is a nice final stop instead of more shopping, about an hour to the base then ten minutes up for $13 one-way or $23 round-trip.

Getting around and practical notes

No metro exists in Kathmandu, plan around taxis and ride-hailing apps instead. Meters are required by law and ignored in practice, agree fares up front or use Pathao or InDrive for locked-in pricing. Nepal runs largely on cash outside major hotels, keep NPR on hand. Dress modestly at temples, remove shoes before entering, and verify any trekking agency is TAAN or NTB registered before booking anything beyond day trips, the unlicensed Thamel storefronts are common and a vetted operator is worth paying more for. Best months remain October-November and March-April for the clearest mountain views.