Couples at Shakhrisabz, Dusk to Dinner
Shakhrisabz is not a resort, and it does not try to be one. For couples, the appeal is a calm evening beside a monumental ruin, a good meal and a mountain pass on the way out. This page follows one evening and the morning after, in order.
Late afternoon: reach the plaza
Arrive at Ak-Saray when the day’s heat has started to fade. The two pylons that survive stand about 38 m high, and from the open plaza at their base you can frame them against the evening sky. The site also has a bronze Timur statue. The palace interior is not part of a visit, so the outing is a slow circuit outside, and an hour is plenty.
The other monuments, Dorut Tilavat and Dorus Saodat, are tombs where people pray. They belong in a daytime visit with quiet voices and modest dress, and not in an evening of romance.
Early evening: tea
Find a teahouse, called a choyxona locally, and sit over tea. It is an unhurried way to end a day of walking. Carry cash for the bill.
Dinner: tandir gosht
The dish to look for is tandir gosht, mutton roasted in clay ovens, which Kashkadarya is known for. The easiest setting is the courtyard of a hotel or guesthouse. Hotel Kesh Palace, on Fusunkor Street, carries a 3-star rating. Arrange dinner when you reserve your room. Rooms can be compared on Booking.com .
The next morning: the pass
Leaving for Samarkand, ask your driver to pause at a viewpoint on the Takhtakaracha Pass. The road tops out around 1,650 m, and the stop gives a last view over the mountains. If it is winter, confirm the day before that snow or ice has not closed the road, and avoid driving the pass after dark.
Getting here and what it costs
Samarkand is about two hours away by road, 80 to 90 km. Monument tickets are around 40,000 UZS each (about USD 3), and the Amir Temur Museum charges around 30,000 UZS. Pay in cash. Spend the middle of the day on the monuments and the covered bazaar, with the museum as an indoor break from the sun, and save the plaza for the end of the afternoon. If you come from Tashkent on a weekend, the Afrosiyob timetable is on eticket.railway.uz .
Planning notes
UK citizens can stay for up to 30 days without a visa, as the FCDO entry page explains. The tourism portal has more on the monuments, and the Historic Centre of Shakhrisyabz page explains the listing.
Read more: Couple activities in Shakhrisabz