Luxor Walks by Effort: Easy to Long
Luxor looks compact on a map and then punishes anyone who treats it that way. The east bank rewards a walk, the west bank does not, and the right length depends on how much heat and effort you want to spend. Three levels follow.
Easy: under an hour
Start on the corniche, the paved riverside esplanade. It is free, flat and best near sunset, when felucca sails cross the water against the Theban hills. From there, step into the souk for spices such as saffron, cumin and hibiscus, handmade galabeyas, alabaster jars and hammered brass lamps. The Abu Haggag Mosque, a 13th century Sufi mosque built into the ancient temple columns, makes a short stop. A mint tea or cold karkadeh at an open-air coffeehouse costs EGP 20 to 40. Haggle with a smile and keep small notes handy.
Moderate: a loop of two or three hours
Link the sites you already want to see. Begin at the garden gate of the 1886 Sofitel Winter Palace (check current access with the hotel), follow the corniche to Luxor Temple, and loop back through the souk. Luxor Temple costs EGP 500 and is floodlit in the evening, so this walk works well in the last hour of daylight. You can book a guided walk on GetYourGuide if you would like the stories behind the stones.
Long: the Avenue of Sphinxes
The processional avenue between Luxor Temple and Karnak runs for 2.7 km. It has been open since November 2021 and is sold as two ticketed segments, one at each end, so check the current price at the ticket office. It is floodlit after dark. There is little shade, so walk at opening time in cool months, or after 17:00 in the heat. Finish at Karnak (EGP 600), where the Hypostyle Hall waits, or turn around and take a taxi back.
West bank: ride, do not walk
There is no pedestrian bridge in central Luxor. Take the public ferry, EGP 5 to 10, and then ride. The monuments sit kilometres apart across barren ridges. In winter a bicycle costs a few dozen EGP up to about EGP 100 a day, and the farm lanes between the Colossi and Medinet Habu are a pleasant ride. Otherwise a half-day taxi costs EGP 500 to 800. Once you reach a site, such as the workers’ village of Deir el-Medina, walk in the cooler hours.
Heat and safety
From June to August it reaches 42 to 46C, so walk before 09:30 or after 17:00 and carry bottled water. The UK government’s Egypt travel advice is worth reading before you travel, and the Tourist Police number is 126. See also the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities for site fees.
Tip: do the easy walk on arrival evening, the moderate loop on day two, and keep the Avenue for a cool morning. The two day Luxor itinerary shows a similar order.